Approved methods for home laundering,

              The University of North Carolina
at Greensboro
JACKSON LIBRARY
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Miss Mary Taylor Moore
Walter Clinton Jacbon Library
THE UNIYERSI'lY OF NoR1H CAROLINA l'J GREENslloRo
Speriol Cdkdions & Rare Boob Division
HOME ECONOMICS P AMPHIEIS
A.pproved Methods
for
Home Laundering
BY
MARY BEALS V... AIL, B. S .
PUBLISHED BY
THE PROCTER & GAMBLE CO.
CINCINNATI, 0.
Copyright 1918
The Procter & Gamble Co.
Cincinnati, Ohio
Table of Contents
Introductory
Value of Laundry Work ....... . . 7
Purifiers
Sun .... . . . . ...... . .. . .... . . . . . .. .. . . . .. . . .. ...... . .. 7
Air ... . .. . .... . .. . . . .... . . . . . . .. . . . . . .. . . . .. . .. ..... .. 8
Water .........•..• . ..... .. .. . . . ,..... . . .. . ... . . . .. . .. 8
Chemical. .... . . . ....... . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .. .. 9
Mechanical. . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . .. . .. . . .. . .. . . . .. . 9
Soil
Inorganic and Organic . ..... . ..... . .. .. . . ... . . . ........ , 11
Stains
Instructions for taking out . .... . . ...•.. . .. . ...•••. 12-18
Fabrics
Cotton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .. .. .. .. . .. .. .. . 19
Linen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .... , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Wool . .. . ........ . ....... . ..........•. ... . . .. . .. . .... . 20-21
Silk . . . .............. . ............ . .... . .. . . . ... . • . .. . 20-21
Soaps
Soap Solution . . . . . . . • • . . . . . . . • . . . . . . 24
Ivory . .. .. .. .. . .. . .. . .. .. . .. .. . 25
Bob White. .. .. .. .. .. . .. . .. . .. .. . 25
Lenox. . . . . . . . . . . . ........... .. . . . . , . . . . , . 25
P. and G.-The White Naphtha....... . . . . . . , .. . . , . . . . . 25
Laundry Aids
Starch ......................... .
Bluing.. .. . . ................... .
Wax ..
Reagents ...
. ... 26-28
. .. . 28-29
.. .. . .. .. .. .. 29
30
Equipment for Home Laundry
List of Art icles N eeded . . . .. . .. . ... 31-38
Practical Laundry Work
Plan of Week's Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39·40
Order of D ay's Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . ......... . 41-42
White Clothes . . . . . .. 42·55
Thick Sta rching. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55-59
Clear Starching. . .............. .. . . . ...... . 59-61
Colored Clothes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61-62
H osiery . ... . ....................... , . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Woolens ... . ...... ... . . , . . . . ... . . ... . ........... , ..... 62-64
Blankets . . . . ... . . . . . . .. . . .. . . .. , . . , ... . .. ... . . .. . ..... 64-65
Silks . . ..... . ..... . .. . . , . . . , .. • ...... .. . ... ... . , .... . . 65-66
Laces and Curtains .. ... ... . , . , . .. . . . ·~ . . .. . . .. ,., .. .. . 67-68
Leather . .... . . . ...... . . .... . . ...... ..... .. .. . .. . , . . , , 68
_52055
The Value of Laundry Work
-Purifiers
~g~~~ HE one great privilege of rich and poor
rl: alike is clean clothes. Water i~ free,
soap is cheap, and sunshine and fresh
air are everywhere. For centuries we
have been training ourselves to like the
"feel" of clean, smooth garments, and
I~~~~~~! I the odor of freshly laundered linen free
from wrinkles, and straight as to
threads of material. This very cleanliness is the
strongest supporter of good health. The skin is made
more active by the fresh clothing, which absorbs the
impurities thrown off by the skin. Moreover, clean,
boiled clothes never carry -disease germs.
In discussing any subject, we must first learn of the
materials to be handled. With the knowledge of these,
intelligent work and satisfactory results are sure to
follow. In our special subject, Home Laundering, the
information side will be discussed under the several
heads : Purifiers, · Soil, Fabrics, and Laundry Aids.
Sun, air, and water-Nature's purifiers-stand first
and are indispensable. The sun's rays have wonderful
properties, direct and indirect, in the form of heat.
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Nothing ~;an compare with them. Many forms of
minute plant life, moulds, and certain bacteria, will not
grow in the sunshine; and sun and air, together with
moisture, break up harmful compounds, rendering them
harmless. Moist heat at boiling temperature or higher
if kept at that temperature long enough, kills all life.
The lower the form of life, the longer will it withstand
heat. So, in order that clothes may be sterile, that is,
free from life, they should heat from cold to boiling and
must boil at least five minutes, and in case of disease
germs, thirty minutes. Dry heat kept at a higher
temperature for a longer time acts in the same way,
but if not controlled, it will injure the fabric. Ironing
applies heat for so short a time that it cannot be depended
on to sterilize clothes.
Air, being one-fifth oxygen, aids in the breaking up of
harmful compounds and, when .in motion, scatters dirt.
Water is our chief dirt carrier. When in motion,
water holds in suspension particles of dirt, which float
away. Much of the soil of clothes may be dissolved
in water, or, by the aid of soap, an emulsion is formed
and the dirt is carried off.
Primitive methods of washing depended almost en­tirely
upon flowing water to cleanse clothes, and washing
in streams is still the method of cleansing among people
of simple habits today, a flat stone, upon which to rub
or pound the clothes, being the only aid, unless soap is
used.
More depends upon the kind o( water we have for
laundry work than upon anything else. Soft water· is
best, but rain water may absorb many things in its
journey from the clouds; after air and roofs are washed
rain water is comparatively clean and may be stored
for use. If we get water from a stream or lake, it may
bring with it particles of plants or soil. These may be
strained out, or the water may be allowed to settle, the
-8-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
clear water being then carefully poured off. Water
which has soaked into the ground and appears in stream,
lake, spring, or well, may have absorbed some mineral
matter that will make it undesirable for laundry pur­poses.
The most common mineral which hardens water is
lime. Temporary hard water is most common. This
is due to a soluble lime compound which is easily broken
up. The water may be exposed to the air over night
in a tub, or it may be boiled. Lime water may be added
to the water to combine with and precipitate the lime,
or a weak solution of washing soda may be added. In
case the hardness is not removable by boiling it is called
permanent hard water. To overcome this add a weak
solution of washing soda. Often the two kinds of hard­ness
appear together. Sal or washing soda will pre­cipitate
them both, but in every case the water must
be well stirred, allowed to settle, and the clear water
drawn off. In softening water with an alkali, only as
much as is necessary to do the work is desirable. More
acts upon clothing and hands, weakening fabric and
roughening the skin. The larger the amount and the
greater the strength of the alkali, the worse the effect.
If the hardness of the water were determined, a definite
amount of sal soda would be necessary to soften the
water, but a chemist would have to make the estimates.
Both kinds of hardness are removable by soap but it
is an expensive process as well as unsatisfactory, because
an insoluble lime soap is formed which floats as a grey
curd on the water· and must be strained out or it sticks
to the clothes. However, if soap is used to soften the
water, the strong yellow cheap kind of soap is the best.
When water carries fine mud in suspension which
will not settle on standing, dissolve one tablespoon alum
in a half pint of water, add it to each gallon of water,
stir well and let it settle, the alum will carry down the
mud with it.
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
The alkalies commonly known and used in the house­hold
are:
Ammonia a gas dissolved in water, and mild in its action if
diluted; it readily evaporates if heated. It is compara­tively
expensive.
Borax, a powder, mild and expensive.
Sal Soda, or Carbonated Alkali, a crystal or powder, stronger
and cheaper than borax.
Potash or Lye, a liquid or solid, strong but little used in modern
times. It is derived from wood ashes by a process of leeching
and is used in making "soft soap."
Caustic Potash and Caustic Soda are very strong and not
expensive, but are rarely known in the household. One or
the other is invariably used in the manufacture of laundry
soaps.
Soap, a very essential purifier, is discussed in a separate
chapter.
...
-10-
Soil
~~~~~~~HE soil in clothing may be of two kinds :
11 inorganic, that is ground up rock or
metals, or stains; or it may be organic,
the product of life; it usually is of
both kinds.
1 ~~~~~~~ Organic dirt being most common,
~ needs to be understood. It may be
food materials or stains: body mate­rial
as blood, excretions, or dead skin; or plant sub­stances
including bacteria and mold.
Bacteria of some kind are practically never absent;
when bacteria are of the harmless kind, and there are
many of them, they are easily destroyed; but when of
harmful kind, called disease bacteria, which are few in
number, they require special attention. All bacteria
can be killed by boiling, the harmless ones need about
five minutes' boiling, the harmful ones being much more
resistent to heat need at least 30 minutes. However,
the work of disinfecting should be done under the
direction of a doctor or nurse.
When organic material of any kind begins to give off
an odor we know that bacteria are at work. This is
noticeably true of clothes that have absorbed perspira­tion.
They announce to the world that yesterday's
clothes are not clean.
Stains are so important that they need a chapter
by themselves.
-11-
Stains
ij-~E~~ T AINS should be removed before the
material is washed, and they come out
easiest when the stain is fresh and
moist. Often cold water alone will
carry off the stain,_ sometimes hot
I ~~~~~~i!JJ water is necessary to dissolve it. If
II hot water and soap are used first, the
stain is usually set, that is, it partakes
of the nature of a dye. To remove stains after they
have been washed without doing injury to the fabric
is almost impossible.
If possible, determine the character of the stain before
anything is done toward removing it; if uncertain about
it, try on a sample or hidden part of the garment.
The stain may need to be
1. Flushed away, wholly or in part,
2. Dissolved, then carried away,
3. Broken chemically, then washed out,
if alkaline by an acid
if acid by an alkali.
4. Absorbed, when washing is undesirable,
5. Bleached, when other methods fail.
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
The simplest method of removing stains should be
tried first. If the material can be wet, use cold water
at once; if the stain is fresh, the excess can usually be
carried away before it fastens itself upon the fibre.
If boiling water is to be used as a solvent stretch the
stained part over a large bowl or saucepan, have a
teakettle full of absolutely boiling water and pour
water through the stain until it disappears. Hold the
kettle high so that the water may fall with force upon
the stain.
If the stain is alkaline in nature it will need an acid
to break it up. Acids and alkalies neutralize each other,
that is they are so unlike that when they are brought
together in the right proportions and solutions one
destroys the characteristic properties of the other and
new products are formed. Both acids and alkalies
should be diluted. If the material is delicate or colored
the acid must not only be diluted but must be used with
great care not to destroy the material or color.
The acids ordinarily used are hydrochloric (also called
muriatic) phosphoric, citric, and oxalic. They may be
purchased at the drug store and should be kept in glass
stoppered bottles.
To take out the stain stretch the stained part over a
bowl nearly full of boiling water and with a medicine
dropper or an old tooth brush apply dilute hydrochloric
acid (1 %) to the stain; occasionally dip the stain into
the water and use acid again. When the stain dis­appears,
rinse well in clear water and then in tepid or
cold water to which a little ammonia has been added,
enough to give a slight odor. Ammonia will break up
the acid which might act upon the cloth and will itself
evaporate. Phosphoric or citric acid (the acid of lemon
juice) may be used in the same way as hydrochloric,
but if the stain is resistant, use oxalic.
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
If the stain is acid in nature an ·alkali is indicated.
Use dilute ammonia first and stronger ammonia or sal
soda later if necessary. Remember that with strength
of solution and duration of contact, danger . to fibre
increases. Use same method of procedure as for acid
stain and neutralize with a dilute acid if sal soda has
been used.
Javelle Water
1 lb. sal soda, or preferably pearl ash,
>i lb. chloride of lime,
2 qts. cold water.
Mix thoroughly, let it stand several hours. Pour off
clear liquid and bottle for use. Keep in dark cool
place.
To use Javelle water, stretch the stained article and
rub the liquid into it, rinse quickly in clear water and
rub again if necessary. Always rinse in ammonia water
at last until all odor of lime is gone.
Solvents a,re indicated when the material or color will
not permit the use of soap and water. To use them
place a pad of absorbent paper or cloth under the stain
and with a soft cloth, or perhaps with a bit of the material
itself dipped in the solvent, rub lightly from the outside
toward the center of the stain," renewing cloth or pad
when neccessary.
As a solvent for fatty dirt use any of the following
with caution: ether, gasoline, or benzine. The fumes
of these solvents are inflammable, so for safety use them
only in daylight and in the open air, where no spark
can ignite the gas and plenty of fresh air will dilute it
beyond the danger point. Chloroform and carbona or
Clenzol, trade names for carbon telrachloride, are
volatile but not inflammable at ordinary temperature~
which makes them the safest solvent for fat.
Turpentine is a solvent for varnish, paint, resins,
oils, etc.
-14-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Alcohol, also inflammable, is a solvent for sugar or
syrupy dirt, for some fats and for varnish and paint.
Glycerine . is a solvent for color in stains.
An absorbent may be necessary if the stained material
cannot be washed. When fresh the stain (if in a carpet
or rug) may be covered with starch or Fuller's earth,
perhaps made into a paste with water: when dry,
the material is brushed off; or layers of soft, or blotting
paper are put over and under the stain and gentle heat
is applied.
Stain Removers.
'
Follow methods given above. The simpler removers
are listed first.
Blood.
1. Soak in cold water or tepid water.
2. Soak in warm, not hot, water and ammonia.
3. Soak in warm, not hot, water and naphtha soap.
4. Javelle water.
5. Cover with wet or dry raw starch, let dry, brush off.
6. Chloroform.
Brass.
1. Rub rancid fat in before washing.
2. Dissolve in warm white vinegar.
Chocolate or cocoa.
1. Wash in cold water.
2. Borax or glycerine, soak, boiling water.
3. Bleach.
Coffee.
1. Boiling water falling with force.
2. Cover with borax and water.
3. Cover with glycerine and ammonia.
4. Bleach.
Egg.
1. Cold water.
Fly Paper.
1. Benzine.
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Boiling water.
Warm alcohol.
Dilute ammonia.
Fruit.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Peroxide of hydrogen and ammonia.
Javelle water.
Glue.
1.
2.
Grass.
White vinegar.
Acetic acid.
1. Cold water.
2. Kerosene.
3. Naphtha Soap.
4. Alcohol.
5. Acid or ammonia.
6. Peroxide of hydrogen.
Grease.
If washable
1. Naphtha soap and cold water.
2. Soften with fat or turpentine then use soap.
Soak vaseline in kerosene before washing.
Soak automobile grease in gasoline before washing.
If not washable
3. Dissolve in gasoline, chloroform or carbona.
4. Absorb with starch or Fuller's Earth.
5. Absorb with blotting paper and warm iron.
Gum.
1. Gasoline.
Ink.
1. Water, if fresh.
2. Sour milk for 24 hours.
3. Salt lemon juice and sunshine.
Fountain Pen Ink.
4. Dilute citric or phosphoric acid followed by ammonia.
5. Dilute hydrochloric or oxalic acid followed by ammonia.
6. Peroxide of hydrogen and ammonia.
7. Javelle water.
I
Red Ink.
8. Cold water followed by ammonia.
9. Javelle water.
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APPROVED .METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Iron Rust.
1. Lemon juice, salt and hot sunshine.
2. Hydrochloric or oxalic acid.
3. Javelle water.
Medicine.
1. Alcohol.
Iodine.
1. Hyposulphite of soda or chloroform.
Mildew is a mold growing on the fibre. It shows itself
on damp clothes that have lain too long and it is hard
to get off.
1. Strong soap solution, powdered chalk and sunshine, keep
moist for hours.
2. Lemon juice and sunshine.
3. Javelle water.
Milk or Cream.
1. Cold water followed by soap and cold water.
Mucus (in handkerchiefs).
1.
2.
3.
Paint,
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Soak in salt and water.
Soak in ammonia and water.
Soak in boric acid and water (in case of severe cold).
Tar or Varnish.
Naphtha Soap.
Gasoline or benzine.
Wood alcohol or turpentine.
Equal parts turpentine and ammonia.
If dry, soften with fat, soak in benzine or wash with soap
and water.
Chloroform for delicate colors.
Paraffin.
1. Scrape off excess.
2. Soak in kerosene, wash with soap.
- 17-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Perspiration.
1. Strong soap solution or borax, and sunshine.
2. Oxalic acid.
3. Javelle water.
4. Sponge silk and cover with powdered chalk.
5. Remove odor with chloroform or by boiling.
6. To prevent odor, neutralize perspiration under the arms
by using boric acid powder.
Sugar or Gum.
1. If washable, warm water.
2. If not washable, dilute alcohol.
Scorch.
1. Water and sunshine.
2. Soap, water and sunshine~
Tea.
1. Cold water.
2. Soak in borax or ammonia.
3. Soak in glycerine. ·
4. Boiling water from a height.
5. Hydrogen peroxide and dilute ammonia followed by dilute
acetic acid and water.
·wax.
1. Scrape off excess.
2. Soft or blotting paper and a warm iron.
3. Warm alcohol (heat over water).
4. Javelle water.
Wine.
1. Dry salt while fresh, then boiling water.
-18-
Fabrics
~~~~~~~HE fabrics that we deal with ordinarily
II are of both vegetable and animal origin.
The vegetable fibres, cotton and
linen, and others less well known, are of
a cellulose, woody nature, and do not
1 ~~~~~~~ readily combine with other materials.
~ Their resistance makes them tough,
strong, and not as easily dyed as animal fibres.
Under the microscope the cotton fibre is ribbon-like,
somewhat thickened at the edges, tapering toward the
end, and slightly twisted. The fibres come from the
fruit pod of the plant, are from one-half to three inches
long, seem like a flattened tube and probably are plant
cells.
Linen comes from the stem of the flax plant. The
fibres average twenty inches long and under the micro­scope
are slender, straight, and tube-like.
Cold dilute acids, or alkalies, will gradually weaken
both cotton and linen fibres. Concentrated acids and
alkalies act upon both according to concentration and
time allowed. Linen is more strongly affected by
alkalies than cotton. With concentrated acids cotton
is converted into parchment-like material first, then
gradually falls to pieces. With concentrated alkalies
cotton becomes thicker, transparent, lustreus, is in
-19-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
fact mercerized, then decomposes. Sal soda (Sodium
carbonate) acts but mildly on either cotton or linen.
Moist chloride of lime and sunlight weaken both fibres,
and if boiled with a weak solution of chloride of lime,
the fibres grow weaker the longer the contact. This
material is used in bleaching both fibres, and the fact
that unbleached materials are stronger than bleached
is thus accounted for.
The animal fibres ordinarily used are wool and silk.
Both are nitrogenous in character, one-wool-being
hair-like, the other-silk-being gum-like. Both are
more easily injured than vegetable fibres, silk being
more delicate than wool. Wool, the hairy covering
of sheep, consists of tube-like fibres which are more or
less wavy or kinky, and average less than four inches
in length. The fibres are covered with scales, invisible
to the naked eye, which number from one to five thou­sand
to the inch. The finer the fibre the greater the
number of scales. Goats have a much longer fleece
called mohair with few kinks, no scales, and will not
felt.
Wool because of its uneven surface will felt and shrink.
When we realize how closely the fibres lie in cloth, we
can understand how the jagged edges may interlock
with rubbing or with the expansion and contraction of
heat and cold in the water or air with which we treat
flannels.
All alkalies act on wool, the effect depending upon
the kind, concentration, temperature of solution, and
duration of contact. Cold dilute caustic alkalies are
destructive, and if hot they will dissolve the wool fibre.
Sal soda makes the fibre yellow, and less elastic. Am­monia
has the least action. Dilute acids roughen the
fibre but concentrated acids disintegrate it. ,.. Chloride
of lime injures the fibre and, if hot, destroys it.
Silk, the product of the silk-worm just as it enters the
chrysalis state, is a lustrous, strong, elastic fibre. The
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
fibre is double, coming from two glands in the head
through one opening and is from 11,?4 to 41;4 feet long.
All alkalies act upon silk according to kind, concentra ­tion,
temperature of solution, and duration of contact.
T he lustre is first impaired and then the fibre is finally
dissolved. Dilute acids roughen the fibre but concen­trated
acids disintegrate it. Both silk and wool are
readily affected by dry heat ; silk first stiffens, then
breaks. Artificial silk will not stand as high a tem­perature
as silk or wool.
In studying laundry work from the textile side not
only the fibre but the weave of the ·cloth must be con­sidered.
Closely woven material is least harmed by
washing but it holds dirt most tenaciously, especially if
twilled. Loosely woven material is easily washed but
because the threads are lightly twisted it may be stretched
or pulled out of shape; if threads are overshot or bro­caded
it requires unusual care not to spoil the design,
tear the threads, or mar the finish. Plain weaves and
plain colors easily show dirt.
-21-
Soap
~iiiil~~~ N VERY early times soap was unknown.
~ To loosen the dirt clothes were rubbed
and beaten in running water. The
oily dirt in the clothes being insoluble
in water, the labor of removing it was
so great that the fabric was usually
injured by the rough treatment. Later
it was discovered that water leeched
from wood ashes would ltghten the labor of washing,
but if it were used too freely the hands and the fabric
suffered.
The first attempt to make soap was a mixture of fat
and potash, but always there was an excess of potash.
The finished soap of today is one of the resultant prod­ucts
of the combination of a fat and a caustic alkali,
either potash or soda. Both the fat and alkali break
down under the force of superheated steam and then
combining form the two new compounds, soap and
glycerine. Perfect soap is neutral having no excess of
acid or alkali. In good soap if either is in excess it is
the alkali. Even when soaps -.have oth,er materials
added to them, as soda, resin, or scouring materials,
neutral soap is first made and then deliberately adul­terated.
-22-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Glycerine is a by-product of every soap factory. Soap
made by what is known as the "cold process" is not
perfectly combined, and contains the glycerine and all
the impurities in the original fat. Home-made soaps
belong to this class and even if most carefully made are
unsatisfactory.
The Alkalies used in soap making are potash, or soda,
known as caustic soda. Potash makes a soft soap, it
was originally leeched or dissolved out of wood ashes,
today it is little used except for the Physicians Green
Soap. Soda makes a hard soap, and before the siege
of Paris it was made from sea plants, but at that time a
method was devised to make it from common salt.
The fats used in soap making are of many kinds, both
of animal and vegetable origin. The latter makes a
milder soap used largely for toilet purposes. Cocoanut
oil alone makes a soap that is soluble in salt water, called
Marine soap.
Resin, a mild fatty acid, is a common adulterant of
laundry soap. It makes suds and is responsible, largely,
for the yellow color of the cheaper soaps. It is of doubt­ful
value in soap, and the growing appreciation of white
laundry soap, which leaves no dark color to be washed
out, is eliminating the use of resin.
Soap owes its cleansing power to its solubility. It
dissolves perfectly in hot water, but as the water cools
it seems to separate if there is much water present.
Hot soap solution does the best work. Soap is an
excellent emulsifying agent; the dirt in clothes is largely
of an oily nature or surrounded by oil and oil is easily
emulsified.
Soap acts so as to cleanse by solution or suspension;
it makes an emulsion of the oily part of the dirt and the
non-oily dirt is absorbed by the soap solution making
a permanent suspension. Both emulsified and sus­pended
dirt are rinsed away in the water.
-23-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
It is true that soap disassociates in water to some
extent; that is, the fatty acid separates from the alkali,
but they recombine on concentration. The alkali
however, has no power in its dilute condition to combine
with the fat of the dirt but it can form new soap with
any fatty acid present. The free alkali may loosen the
dye of delicate colors if the dye was set with an acid;
in such case an excess of acid, such as vinegar, will pro­tect
the color.
Soap plants, although having no alkali present, act
in solution, much as do soaps, forming emulsions and
suspensions with the dirt. Being practically neutral
the color is not disturbed.
Petroleum Oil used in Naphtha soaps is a solvent for
fats and adds to the effectiveness of the soap.
Sometimes housekeepers add a little piece of paraffin,
or a tablespoon or two of kerosene to a boiler full of
clothes with good results, except that many rinsings in
hot water are necessary to get rid of the odor; for this
reason the use of naphtha soap is better, and white
naphtha soap is best because it leaves no color to be
rinsed out.
Soap powders are made of soap, dried and ground,
to which is added more or less borax and washing soda,
and sometimes a scourer.
Soap flakes are a new and convenient soap product­small
thin flakes that melt instantly in warm water. When
made from a pure, mild soap they are unexcelled for fine
laundry work.
Soap solution is not for sale but is easily made and more
economical than using the cake in the water. For
laundry purpose shave one bar of laundry soap into
three or four quarts of hot water and cook until soap is
dissolved. Use hot or cold. Do not make or store in
tin or aluminum utensils-. •
Ivory Soap Solution, if sufficiently concentrated, will
form a jelly when cooled. Shave one small cake of Ivory
- 24-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Soap into two quarts of water, cook about ten minutes,
or until perfectly dissolved, put into jars, and use
when cool. An easier way is to dissolve a third of a
package of the new Ivory Soap Flakes in a quart of
water. This solution is used for fine laundry work, or
on a dry cloth to clean material on which you would not
use soap and water, as heavy gloves, leather, etc.
In choosing soap the use to which it is to be put must
be considered.
As a rule white soaps attract the housewife and if
quality is added to color the soap cannot be excelled.
It is for this reason that "Ivory Soap" has been for many
years the standard of excellence. Being a white, neutral,
floating soap it is desirable for toilet purposes and at
the same time will not injure the finest muslins, woolens,
silks and laces. The new Ivory Soap Flakes gives us this
same ideal soap in an even more ideal form for fine
laundering.
To meet the housewife's desire for a cheaper white
soap the "Bob White Laundry Soap" has been put on
the market.
Many people believe that soap to be strong and
effective must be light brown in color, to such "Lenox
Soap" should be the standard.
The "P. AND G.-The White Naphtha Soap" has for
year been a valuable aid to the housewife.
Naphtha soap needs to be better known, because of
the mineral oil incorporated in it the work of rubbing
is lessened, and it also does away with boiling if plenty
of water, sunshine and fresh air are available. Never­theless
an occasional boiling is desirable to make clothes
white and sweet smelling.
To use Naphtha soap, shave it into warm (not hot)
water and soak the clothes in it for one hour, or better
still, over night. Very dirty clothes should have soap
rubbed into them before soaking. Rinse clothes out
of water in which they have been soaked, look them over
for soiled spots which may need rubbing, rinse, blue,
and hang out.
-25-
Laundry Aids
~~~~~~ OST important of the little extras in a
laundry is starch. It is of vegetable
origin, and found in many parts of the
plant, but principally in the seed, root,
or tuber, where it is stored as food for
the germ when it begins to sprout.
The tiny starch granules, known to
us as a tasteless, odorless, white powder,
cannot be distinguished one from the other except-by
the microscope, when their shape, size, and markings
are recognized. When subjected to heat and moisture
these granules absorb moisture, burst their envelopes
and combine with the water to form a gelatinous mass,
more or less thick, according to the amount of water
used. It is this peculiarity of starch which makes it
valuable in the laundry. The threads of the cloth are
coated with starch, and the spaces between the threads
are filled. This gives stiffness to the material when
dry, and prevent its mussing, soiling, or staining easily.
The usual sources of starch are corn, wheat, rice, and
potato. Sago and tapioca both furnish excellent starch,
similar in its qualities to rice starch.
Rice starch is capable of great dilution, the granule
being one of the smallest; it is used for fine muslins.
It is rarely found on sale in America but is easily made
from rice.
-26- ...
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Corn starch is cheap and in general use; its stiffening
quality is high. It is sometimes mixed with wheat
starch.
Wheat starch is used in public laundries because its
results are satisfactory, the material being not only stiff
but more flexible than when corn starch is used.
Potato starch is little used except for the filling of
cloth in factories.
General Directions for Making Starch.
Mix starch with a small quantity of cold water to a
creamy consistency, add a little more cold water, and
then the desired amount of absolutely boiling water,
stirring constantly. Put the starch over the fire and
boil it for several minutes still stirring to prevent burn­ing.
Cool or dilute for use. If oil, borax, or wax are
used, they should be cooked with the starch, but bluing
is added later.
The proportions for cooked starch are one measure­ment
of starch to eight of boiling water, for thick starch;
and one measurement of starch to sixteen of boiling
water, for thin starch.
Uncooked or partly cooked starch will stick and
make trouble for the ironer, especially if the irons are
not hot. The amount of starch needed is regulated by
the number of clothes to be starched. Starch may be
made thinner by adding water, and it always grows
thinner with use.
Thick Starch
Mix Yz cup starch and
;li cup cold water, add
;li level teaspoonful shaven white wax or lard and
4 cups (1 qt.) boiling water.
Let it boil up several times, to be sure that wax is
melted and mixed and starch cooked. Add a little
bluing and set dish in a pan of cold water until it is
cool enough to handle.
-27-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Thin Starch
In a clean granite kettle put
Yz cup starch,
7<!: level teaspoonful lard or twice as much borax,
stir smooth with
Yz cup of cold water, then, stirring rapidly, add
1 quart of boiling water and continue stirring until
it boils thoroughly. Have holder ready to lift it from
the fire, or it will boil over. Add
1 quart of cold water to thin it and reduce the
heat, and enough bluing to counteract the yellow color
of the starch. Turn starch into a large dish. If care­fully
made, it need not be strained.
Rice Starch
W.:sh 7.4: cup rice, put into
1 quart wat('r, boil it slowly, stir often at first,
keep up the quantity of water, and cook until the rice is
a pulp. Add 1 quart boiling water, and strain through
a flannel bag (without pressing). If too thick, dilute
it with cold water, and use while hot.
Raw Starch
To 3 tablespoonfuls of the plain starch, add
1 teaspoonful borax and
1 pint of tepid water. Stir well and use at once.
If prepared starch is used, make' in the same way,
but do not add borax.
After using, allow the starch, if clean, to stand and
settle, pour the water off, and dry the starch. It may
be used again as raw starch, or, better, may be made
into cooked starch.
Bluing
Sunshine, moisture, and fresh air are the best bleach­ers.
Could we command a clean grass plot, pure air,
and sunshine, there would be no need of bluing. Clothes
become yellow from careless washing, dark colored
soaps, stains, or impure water. To cover up this telltale
color, we use bluing. Bluing is sold in solid or liquid
form. The solid is usually insoluble, the fine particles
-28-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
of blue are all through the water while it is in motion,
and will settle when the water is undisturbed. These
particles lodge in the cloth and give it a bluish-white
color.
Indigo, a solid blue, was originally a vegetable prod­uct,
but is now manufactured. It was the first bluing
used. It varies greatly in quality, and is little used at
present.
Ultramarine blue was originally the stone lapis lazuli
ground fine, but is now manufactured and sold in little
blue balls.
Aniline blue, either solid or liquid, is a product of
coal tar, and is a strong dye. This blue is used almost
exclusively by the public laundries. It will not set in
an alkaline medium, therefore the clothes must be rinsed
free from soap, and a little acid, usually acetic acid, is
added to th~ bluing water before the clothes are put in.
Prussian blue is usually sold in liquid form. It was
first manufactured at Berlin, hence its name. Being
soluble, it is easy to use, and gives a bright blue to the
clothes. Prussian blue is a salt of iron, and, with an
alkali, changes to iron rust. If the clothes are rinsed
free of soap, it may be used with good results. If
careless work is done, you may find the clothes yellow
or rusted in fine spots. You can assure yourself that
the liquid is Prussian blue by heating a little of it with
a strong solution of sal soda. The mixture will turn
yellowish red and precipitate what is known as iron rust.
Every laundry cupboard would be more complete if
supplied with the following materials:
Beeswax or Paraffin, used to fill up and make smooth sad irons.
It should be tied in a cloth for easier handling.
Common Salt, a neutral compound, used as a securer for soiled
irons, or to set colors.
-29-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Ammonia, in liquid form (household ammonia), and
Borax, a white powder. Both being mild alkalies, are used where
soaking rather than rubbing is desirable, and the color is not
to be considered. Borax, especially, is a mild bleach. It
has also the power of stiffening fibres.
Sal Soda, or washing soda, is used for testing, and to "break" hard
water.
Javelle Water is used to take out stains, and to bleach.
Hydrochloric or Muriatic Acid, dilute, a liquid, and
Oxalic Acid, in liquid or crystal form, are used to take out stains.
White Vinegar, used to set colors.
Grain Alcohol, used to dissolve sugar, some medicine, and grass
stains.
Ether dissolves fat or oil from the more delicate fabrics.
Kerosene is a solvent, used in washing and to clean rubber.
Gasoline is used to take out stains and to clean gloves and ribbons.
Sulphur is a bleach.
Powdered Chalk or Fuller's Earth will absorb stains.
Soap should be bought in quantity and kept in a clean, dry place.
If allowed to harden, there is less waste in using.
-30-
Equipment for Home Laundry
~~~~~~ HE Room should be light and airy.
The Stove should be one made for
that purpose. It should be the right
shape for the boiler and so low that
lifting is not burdensome.
~r!~~~~~ Tubs, if stationary, should be porce-lain
lined, or made of cement. The
top of the tub should be about 36 inches from the floor
for the average woman. This should be considered
when they are set. Portable tubs are made of fibre,
·galvanized iron, enamel, or wood. The wooden ones
are best if made of cedar and brass-bound, but they
are heavy, and will warp and leak if not kept in a damp
place or with water in them. Tubs of all kinds must
be kept clean. A scourer of any kind roughens the
surface and makes it easier for the dirt to lodge. A
strong soap or sal soda will keep the galvanized tub
bright, but at the expense of the plate. The sheet iron
foundation will rust. Three tubs are necessary for
good work.
-31-
0 0 0
o~,~ o 0
~
0 0 0
0 0 0
0 0 0
:_ IA:ECHANICAL WASHING DEVICE
Made to fit in the bottom of a wash boiler. The formation of
steam forces the hot, soapy water up the spouts,
over and through the clothes.
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
A Wash Bench should be of the right height for the
user. The bench should have pegs to hold the tubs
in place, and preferably a support for the wringer set
between the tubs.
A Rubbing Board is often moulded into the stationary
tub, but this is rarely used, probably because it is not
of the right height or slant. Portable boards are made
of brass, zinc, or glass, and as long as they are not broken
or ragged, there seems to be little choice in them, except
that the rougher ones are better for dirty clothes.
A Washing Machine of any kind simplifies work and
is more efficient than rubbing on a board. Many
principles are made use of to force the dirt out of the
clothes into soapy water; the action of the machine
may be rotary, oscillating, rocking, or revolving, or
the principle of the percolator may be used to pull the
dirt out by putting a false bottom into the boiler with
one or more tubes attached which extend above the
clothes. The power may be man, water motor, steam,
or electricity, and each maker claims an advantage in
price or efficiency or both. Get the best you can afford
but remember that brains are also necessary to the proper
operation of all washing machines.
A Wringer saves not only time and strength but the
clothes as well. It is economy to buy a good wringer
and to care for it. One with reversible drip board is
best. Frequently put a few drops of good oil onto the
bearings. After each using loosen the screws that the
rolls may not become flat, wipe the wringer off with clean
tepid water and cover it from dust.
The Boiler may be round or oblong, stationary or
portable, but should be very largely of copper, not only
for the sake of greater durability but also because copper
transmits heat more readily than most metals.
A Clothes Stick may be made of an old broomstick,
or can be bought with a metal-pronged end.
-34-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
A Pail, of enameled ware, galvanized iron, tin, fibre,
or wood is necessary for changing waters, and to carry
clothes.
A Dipper, of enameled ware or tin, is also necessary.
A Sauce Pan, of 5 or 6 qt. capacity, for making starch,
should be of enameled ware, made with a bail.
A Teakettle, of enameled ware or tin, for heating
starch water.
A Case Knife, a large wooden spoon, a tablespoon, .~
teaspoon, a tin cup 01 pint divided into fourths) and a
quart cup are necessary.
A Mangle or Ironing Machine is desirable if there is
much flat work-bed and table linen and towels-to be
ironed. Mangles work like a wringer. They are made
for home use but are rarely seen outside of a public
laundry; however, they deserve to be better known.
A cold process mangle smoothes the clothes which must
be dried later, but if one roll is heated the result is more
satisfactory.
The Table for sprinkling and ironing should be strong
and firm and not more than 32 inches high. For thick
starch work, the weight of the ironer is often laid upon
the iron, and her table must be adjusted to her work.
For ironing, the table should be covered with two
thicknesses of a wool or cotton blanket, or one of felt,
and over that a sheet made of firm, smooth cotton,
preferably half bleached, because it wears longer. The
sheet should be hemmed and have tapes attached to it,
which are tied under the table and hold it in place.
A Skirt Board sometimes has a standard attached;
if it furnishes a firm support it is very desirable. The
blanket should be tacked on, and the cotton sheet tied
or pinned.
-35-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
A Bosom Board is needed for ironing shirts.
A Sleeve Board is also a help for infants' clothes.
A Folding Clothes Horse should be light, strong, and
made without iron anywhere.
Sad Irons must have a smooth surface. Nickel­plated
irons will not rust. Steel-faced irons will keep
smooth longer than those of cast iron. The irons with
detachable handle are desirable, but the old-fashioned
ones will do as good work. A gas iron has a tube con­necting
it with the gas pipe, and the gas burns inside
the iron. An electric iron has wire connections with
an electric plant. A gasoline or alcohol iron differs
from a gas iron in that the fuel is in a tank back of the
handle. The heat does not vary in these irons while
they are in use, but their great advantage is that they
can be used in a cool room.
New irons must be heated thoroughly and rubbed with
grease or wax before using. To store irons keep in a
warm, dry place. If they are to be packed away, rub
them with vaseline or clean grease and wrap in paper.
A Clothes Basket should be light and easily handled.
A Clothes Line must be kept clean. If stationary,
whether of rope or wire, it must be wiped with a damp
cloth before using.
Clothes Pins should be washed occasionally and
always stored in a clean, dry place. If in a clothes-pin
apron, fold the top over the pocket and put on a shelf.
A Clothes-pin Apron may be made from a piece of
bed ticking or something equally strong. Have material
half a yard wide and three-quarters of a yard long,
turn up one-quarter of a yard on the outside for a pocket,
bind the pocket and the sides of the apron with tape,
tack the pocket in the middle, and put the apron on a
~h. ~
-36-
MRS. POTTS IRON COMMON IRON
POLISHER
GAS IRON ELECTRIC IRON
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
A Whisk Broom for sprinkling clothes, or a metal
sprinkler attached to a hose, if running water is available.
A Flannel Bag, or one made of loosely woven cotton,
is used for straining rice starch. A piece about 15
inches square is folded from corner to corner, making
a triangle, and is stitched a little more than half way up.
When in use, the top end is folded over a rod or hook and
pinned so that the bag does not touch the utensil under­neath.
Old flannel, folded once or twice, is used when ironing
embroidery or pinning down lace.
Old cloths are necessary for lining basket, covering
sprinkled clothes, wrapping up clean clothes, or cleaning
off spots.
In addition one needs scissors, an ironing stand,
an iron holder, perhaps of asbestos, and ·a medicine
dropper, and soft brush for taking out stains.
- 38-
Practical Laundry Work
~tJ~~ii~~ LUE Monday" has so long been
II washday that to wash regularly on
Monday.
Tuesday takes courage. But, would
it be "blue Monday" if the work did
not, beyond reason, heap up on the
housekeeper? Where one woman has
everything to do, this plan is sug­gested
for the week's work:
1. Put the house in order.
2. Plan and cook for Tuesday.
3. Sort clothes.
4. Mend clothes (rents grow in washing).
5. Take out stains (see pages 12 to 18).
6. Soak soiled clothes.
7. Lay fire for morning.
8. Fill boiler.
9. Get tubs and other things ready.
In sorting clothes, arrange them in five piles:
1. Table linen.
2. Bed linen, body linen, towels, handkerchiefs
(soak in boracic acid sol~tion if they have been
used for a cold).
-39-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
3. Flannels.
4. Colored cottons and stockings.
5. Soiled towels and cloths.
Soaking clothes loosens the dirt and makes the work
of washing easier, but only white clothes should be
soaked. Soft water is best, as hard water and soap are
likely to hold dirt in clothes. If three tubs are available,
use one for table linen, one for bed and body linen, and
one for the soiled towels and cloths. These last should
be soaked, even if the rest are not. The table linen
will need soaking least of all. Wet the clothes, rub
soap solution on the soiled parts, fold and roll each
piece by itself, so that the dirt from soiled parts will
not get into the clean parts; pack in a tub, cover with
cold water and let them stand over night. For two
or three hours' soaking use warm but never hot water.
Tuesday.
1. Light fire and heat water.
2. Make soap solution. (See page 24).
3. Wash.
4. Dry.
5. Sprinkle and roll clothes.
Wednesday.
1. Iron and bake.
2. Do thick starching.
Thursday.
Finish ironing.
Friday.
Put house in order.
Saturday.
Bake and plan for Sunday.
-40-
'
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Tuesday.
Order of Day's Work Outlines
(Details are given on following pages) ·
1. Heat water.
2. Make soap soluton.
3. Wash flannels or silk underwear. These require
no boiling and only warm water, and, if rinsed
and hung out at once, will be dry before the line
is needed for other things.
4. Wash stockings.
5. Using warm, clean suds, wash cleanest things
first:
Table linen,
Bed linen,
Towels,
Body linen,
Handkerchiefs,
Soaked clothes.
Make fresh suds whenever necessary. It is a
mistake to think you can wash clothes clean in
dirty water.
6. Boil. Put clothes into cold water with soap
solution. Let them come slowly to the boiling
point, then let them boil {or five minutes. The
longer they are coming to the boil the better.
7. Rinse in two or three waters. The more
waters, the whiter and cleaner the clothes.
8. Blue. Shake out each piece and put through
the bluing water. Never allow clothes to stand
in bluing water, or they will become streaked.
9. Starch clothes needing thin starch.
-41-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
10. Hang out, putting pieces of a kind together,
and have the threads of the cloth straight.
11. Wash colored clothes.
12. Take down, piece by piece, and fold. Never
crush clothes into a basket.
13. Dampen and roll up.
Washing of Linen and Cotton
White Clothes
Heat water in boiler.
Place tub on bench and rubbing board in place. Be
sure that both are clean.
Pour warm water into tub.
Add soap solution.
Take cleanest clothes first, soaked ones last.
Rubbing is necessary for soiled clothes. Bench and
board should be of the right height, so that the arms,
rather than the back, will do the work. Rub soap or
soap solution on the article, drop it to the foot of the
board, hold the goods firmly with both hands, but in
such a way that the cloth, not the hands, will get the
benefit of the rubbing. While rubbing up and down
the board gradually gather the cloth into the hands,
then turn the article and rub the other side in the same
way. Soiled parts may need extra soap and rubbing.
Garments should be left wrong-side out, to protect the
right side from dust, while drying. T<:1ke fresh suds
whenever water becomes dirty. Delicate fabrics should
be rubbed between the hands, the fleshy parts of the
thumb being employed instead of the board .
....
Put clothes through a carefully adjusted clean wringer.
Wringing by hand is not only hard work, but it strains
the cloth. When using the wringer, fasten it firmly
-42-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
in a convenient place, adjust the screws to bring the
rolls close together, and fold the cloth so that it will be
even in thickness when going through the machine.
Be sure to fold all buttons and hooks inside the garment
and turn the wringer slowly. For blankets or heavy
material the wringer must be loosely adjusted.
Second suds is often necess·ary. Shake out clothes
from wringer and drop into fresh, warm suds. When
the tub is partly filled, look over clothes for spots that
may need rubbing; then wring again into a clean basket
or pail. The clothes are now ready for
Boiling. Clothes should be clean before they are
boiled, but if any soiled or yellow parts have nQt yielded
to rubbing, put soap on them before they go into the
boiler. Half fill the boiler with cold soft water and
enough soap solution to make a light lather. Shake
out each piece and drop it into the water. All white
clothes should be boiled, and the best results are obtained
when there is a large quantity of water and the boiler
is but half full of clothes. Bring them slowly to the
boiling point, and boil about five minutes. A clean
stick is necessary for handling the hot clothes. If the
clothes grow yellow in boiling, it may be due to a poor
quality of soap, water containing iron, or poor washing.
Boiling should not be omitted or slighted. The gex:ms
that make bad-smelling clothes are easily killed by
boiling. Disease germs may need longer boiling, thirty
minutes at least, or several boilings; but this is usually
done under a doctor's directions.
After the white clothes have been boiled (and clean,
cold water should be used for each new boilerful) the
lamp cloths may go into the hot water without previous
washing, kerosene being the agent that cleanses them.
They must be well rinsed to get rid of the kerosene
smell, and for this purpose hot water is better than
cold.
--43-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Rinsing is very important, for clothes must be free from
soap before bluing, especially if you use the liquid blue.
Lift the clothes slowly out of the boiler into a clean pail
or dishpan, and drain them to get rid of the soapy water
before dropping them into the rinsing water. Use soft
water for the first rinsing, then hard water if the color
of rain water is not good. The first rinsing water should
be warm, or the soapy curd will harden on the clothes,
and it may be necessary to rub to get it off. A second,
and even a third, rinsing water is desirable. It is care­less
rinsing that leaves clothes a bad color, and no amount
of bluing will cover it up. Use the wringer for rinsing
and bluing waters-in fact, whenever possible.
Bluing. We have grown to like clothes of a blue-white
color. The more sunshine and fresh air, the less blue is
needed. No rule or proportion can be given for bluing.
The quantity to be used must be regulated by the color
and the amount of clothes to be blued. Often more
blue must be added, or a fresh water made. Tie the
solid blue in a thick cloth, flannel preferred, wet it,
and squeeze out. Make a strong solution of bluing in
hot water, using a dipper or small pan, and add what is
needed to the tub of water. Take a little of the solution
in the palm of the hand to test it. It should be of a pale
blue color. When bluing water is right in color, stir
it and use at once. Remember that if it stands the
solid blue will settle, and clothes that touch the bottom
or sides of the tub will become streaked with blue.
Shake out each article and drop into bluing water, then
very soon wring out and drop into a clean basket. Un­starched
clothes are now ready for the line. Clothes
requiring thick or raw starch should also go onto the
line to get the sun and air.
Starching comes next for those clothes requiring thin
starch: aprons, shirt-waists, the trimming of underwear,
etc. Make the starch according to directions starting on
page 26. The amount of starch needed depenQ.s upon
-44-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
the number of garments to be starched. Dry or thick
materials take up more starch than wet or thin ones,
and the starch may need to be thinned with water for
some garments. When only part of a garment is to be
starched, gather that part into the hand and dip it into
the starch, rub it well, then squeeze out the starch.
This must be done by hand, the rest of the garment
being held out of the way. The starched pieces are
hung out with the rest.
Drying. Sunshine and fresh air are so valuable in
bleaching and purifying clothes that if we can control
a bit of outdoors we must use it. To aid in the bleach­ing,
put clothes out without wringing, or let ·them lie
on the grass and moisten them frequently.
In cold weather the laundress should protect herself
with a sweater or short jacket, a hood, and white mittens.
Wipe the line with a damp cloth. If the material is
so placed that the threads are straight and the article
in the shape desired when finished it simplifies the rest
of the work; and, if ironing for every piece is impossible,
you will have straight, sweet, sun-dried clothes to wear
or use without any further work except folding. Many
people prefer the odor of sun-dried clothes, and if the
wind whips out the wrinkles they are satisfactory.
Ribbed underwear, stockings, towels, and often sheets
and pillowcases need no ironing if time is limited. Plan
to have things dry quickly, never let water run into
gathers or pockets, or have puckers or corners to stretch
·out or straighten later.
Always hang articles
to dry quickly,
for least strain,
with things of a kind together,
with threads of material straight,
with hems, not selvages over line,
with articles wrong side out.
-45-
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
In detail: hang skirts by bands; shirts and waists
by the shoulders; aprons and drawers by bands or a few
inches over the line; chemises and night gowns with
six inches of hem or top over line; closed end of pillow
case over line; towels and napkins que-fourth over
line; one piece dresses on a coat hanger; and sheets
and table clothes doubled wrong side out, hems stretched,
placed ten inches over line and pinned at least four times
to prevent sagging. Small or delicate things may be
hung in a cheese cloth bag and shaken occasionally
while drying. When clothes are dry, take them down
carefully, shake them free from dust and possible insects,
and fold them lightly, never crush them into the basket.
When it is feasible, a light sprinkling, while yet on the
line will eliminate one handling.
Dampening or sprinkling is usually done the last thing
at night. Cover the table with a clean cloth, fill a basin
with warm water, and use a clean whisk broom for
sprinkling. A patent sprinkler, preferably attached
to a hose, is better still, but the drops should always
be small. Sprinkle each large piece, fold sides and ends
into the middle, then roll tightly. Lay small pieces
together before rolling. Linen should be very damp.
Pack all the rolls into the basket and cover closely.
Sprinkle only what can be ironed the next day. If
kept damp too long, in hot weather especially, the
clothes may mildew.
Ironing is the finish of good laundry work and the test
of the laundress. It is done to make clothes smooth,
to make them feel better and stay clean longer. Have
ready an ironing table or board , tightly covered with a
blanket and a clean ironing sheet, an iron stand, clean
irons, beeswax in a cloth, a piece of old cloth, a bowl
of water, and a piece of clean paper folded three or
four times, to try the irons. Irons must be kept clean
to do good work. Never put a soiled iron back onto
the stove.' Use a dull case knife or piece of steel to
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
scrape off the starch. Sometimes it will be necessary
to rub them on fine salt sprinkled on paper, or even to
wash them in soap and water and dry them. Wax
rubbed over the warm surface of the iron and then
rubbed off on a cloth or paper will keep them smooth.
While heating irons by gas, they must be wiped off
several times, else the moisture that collects on the
cool iron will form rust and soil the clothes. A laundress's
test for a hot iron is to hold it near her cheek for a few
seconds. If too hot for this, it is too hot to use. But
it is better to try the iron on a piece of old cloth. Another
test is to touch the bottom of the iron with a wet finger,
if it hisses, it is hot-the shorter the hiss, the hotter
the iron.
Shake or stretch the article to be ironed into shape and
place on board, having threads of cloth straight. Iron
with right hand from right to left, using the left hand to
arrange the material, but occasionally iron with the
left hand. As the material is ironed, bring it over the
table or board toward you. First iron the part that will
wrinkle least, leaving the plain, straight parts until
the last. Ruffles and trimming should be ironed first.
Lace must be stretched into shape before ironing and
again afterward, to soften it. Best results are attained
when the iroq follows che long warp thread of the mate­rial.
The cloth should be left dry, especially bands,
hems, and seams, or they will wrinkle. Linen must be
very wet, and must be ironed with a heavy iron until
perfectly dry. This gives a smooth, glossy surface as
well as firmness to the material. For heavy materials
use heavy irons; for thin materials, lighter irons, and
for gathers, a narrow, pointed iron. Iron quickly
with a hot iron, yet not hot enough to scorch. If
the material becomes dry or soiled, dampen or rub it
with a soft cloth.
Folding does not improve the appearance of articles,
but it is necessary in order to store things and keep them
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
from mussing. In general, all pieces should be folded
several times lengthwise, that is, with the warp, then
softly crosswise, until of convenient shape for handling.
The trimming, if any, should show, and usually it governs
the shape of the folded garment. '
Airing is necessary to dry the clothes; they should
hang over night on the bars, and be sorted, mended and
put away the next day. Clean, pure air is necessary
that they may smell sweet and be free from dust. Damp
clothes are a menace to health.
-48-
Directions for Special Articles
~~~~m ABLE Cloths must be freed from stains
't before washing, and must be shaken
and hung straight on the line, the
selvage folded six inches over at least
or they may be doubled. Fold several
times when taking from the line and
never crush into the basket. If the
the linen has dried crooked and is
stiff, it must be straightened after it is dampened. For
this two people are needed, one at each end, to shake
and stretch it into shape. Let each person gather the
cloth into her hands just below the hem; hold the sel­vages
tightly with the little fingers, the rest hold loosely;
then, with both hands held high and close together,
at a signal throw the hands quickly down and out.
Repeat this several times if necessary, then fold selvages
together, right side out. When ready to iron, lay hems
on table with the rest of the cloth at the back of the
table to keep it damp, iron one side the full length of
cloth until only partly dry, then the other side until
perfectly dry. A hot, heavy iron is necessary to give a
firm, glossy linen that will hold its shape. If it is possible
to store it with only one long fold it must be wrapped
around a six-inch roll as long as the cloth is wide. If
this is not practicable, fold again and iron fold in. All
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
folds may be put on the right side of the cloth in the
following manner: After ironing both sides of the folded
cloth, open it and bring selvages together in the one
middle fold on the wrong side, iron the new folds, and
lay sides together to air. Never press cross folds.
Hang the tablecloth to dry and fold it lightly when
ready to put away.
Very old or thin linen may need the least bit of starch.
One cupful of thin starch to half a pail of bluing water
will be enough. The linen will be a little firm and
glossy, but it must not show that it has been starched.
Napkins also must be very damp, and must be ironed
until dry. Stretch into shape, and place on board right
side up and hem in front of you. Iron both sides, then
lay hems together square and true and make two length­wise
folds, then two crosswise folds, and iron all folds
in. The test of a well-ironed napkin is smooth, glossy
linen and square, true corners, all even. Napkins may
be ironed double, like a tablecloth. ff the napkin
is small, it may be folded into thirds like a fan, first one
way, then the other. Embroidered napkins must be
ironed on the wrong side, over several thicknesses of
flannel, to bring out the design, then the rest of the
napkin must be ironed dry and glossy. The embroidery
must appear on the outside when folded. Fringe must
be whipped and brushed straight.
Carving cloths, tray cloths, centre pieces and doilies
should have hems and corners true. They are never
folded, but should be loosely rolled if too large to lie
flat in a drawer.
Towels, if of damask, are ironed on both sides, then
folded twice lengthwise. If of coarser weave, iron one
side, then iron the other side as you fold it. Bath
towels should never be ironed.
Handkerchiefs are made very damp, ironed smooth
and straight with a hot iron, and folded as a napkin
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
When embroidery or design of material is to be brought
out, iron on wrong side. When plain, take polisher or
ordinary iron of small size for the neck and cuffs. The
part to be ironed should be straight and near to the front
edge of the table, right under the ironer. Iron the
neckband and cuffs first on the right side, then on the
wrong, then again on the right side to dry and polish.
Use the ordinary iron for the rest of the waist; fold
the sleeve at seam and iron on top side nearly to fold.
With hand inside sleeve, loosen the two sides, then iron
lower side of sleeve. With hand inside again, change
position of unironed part and smooth it with narrow
iron, leaving no crease in sleeve. Place small iron
inside sleeve at top, and smooth gathers. Do this also
at cuffs if possible. If sleeve board is used, these
directions are unnecessary. The fronts are usually
ironed next and the back last. Stretch front pleat
and tucks into shape, place pleat next you on the board,
and iron until perfectly dry. Lastly, put iron upon
seams. Smooth all creases and hang waist to air.
Thick Starching
The most approved way of stiffening shirt bosoms,
collars, and cuffs, is by the use of thick, boiled starch.
Raw starch carefully used will produce a similar result.
Make thick starch (page 27). For rubbing in starch,
use a clean table or, better still, stretch over the table
a heavy, damp cloth, and fasten it securely by pins or
strings. On the table place the starch, a bowl of water;
and a clean, soft cloth.
Dip shirts into water and wring as dry as possible.
Have them still wrong side out, shake them straight,
stretch the neckband or collar into shape, and lay it
upon the table wrong side up. Rub starch into it with
the hand, especially on seams and edges, until it feels
full of starch. Put a little starch into the back of the
yoke. Take a damp cloth and rub off lightly any extra
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
starch. Stretch the bosom into shape and place it on
the table wrong side up. The back of the shirt will lie
beneath it. On the bosom ·lay the two cuffs or wrist­bands
straight and wrong side up. Rub starch into the
cuffs from the wrong side until it appears on the right
side and the cuff feels full of starch. Rub off any extra
starch with a damp cloth, and smooth out any wrinkles
on the right side of the cuff. Rub starch into the bosom
the same way, "clear it off," turn it onto the right side,
and work out all wrinkles. Leave all parts as smooth
and true as you wish them to be when ironed. Separate
the back from the front, hang bosom toward the fire,
have neck band in shape, tab turned up, and cuffs straight.
Allowing parts to dry in shape makes the work of ironing
comparatively easy. Treat separate collars and cuffs
in the same way as the shirt and pin them onto a cloth,
or string them together to dry.
Thick starch work is never dampened by sprinkling,
but by contact with a wet cloth. It is better to dampen
the clothes overnight, but four or five hours under
pressure will answer. Dip the lower half of the shirt
into water and wring it half dry, turn half of the wet
part over the bosom and half over the back. Place
the cuffs on the bosom, fold the sides toward the centre,
and roll from the neck down, or, better still, place one
shirt upon another, and over all a cloth, board and
heavy weight.
To iron a shirt you need an ironing table, a bosom
board, a knife to clean the irons, wax, a bowl of water,
a clean cloth, and polishing, as well as ordinary flat­irons.
Turn the shirt right side out, double the back in
the middle and iron it quickly with a common iron.
Iron the yoke. Straighten the cuffs, and with a polisher,
iron first the wrong side sliglitly, then the right side
until dry and polished. To polish successfully, great
pressure must be used. The weight of the body is
often brought down upon the iron. Iron the sleeve
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3 4 0 5
FOLDING OF SHIRTS
APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
just above the cuff. Next, iron the neckband on the
wrong side, and polish the inside of the yoke, because
it shows when the shirt is folded. Dry and polish the
right side of the band. If the collar is attached to the
shirt, iron it first, but do not turn it over until you are
ready to fold the shirt, then fold carefully with the hand,
and press it with the iron in the middle of the back.
Put shirt on bosom board. If the shirt is open in front,
iron the upper side first; iron lightly, then dry and polish.
Then iron the lower side of the bosom, then both to­gether
until perfectly dry. Be sure the sides are of
equal length and the eyelet holes coincide. If the
shirt is closed in front, iron the side near you first, then
the pleat in the middle and raise the pleat with a dull
knife; then, iron the side from you, working toward
the outside of the bosom. Always work lightly and
slowly at first until the part begins to dry out, then with
force and faster, to dry thoroughly and polish. After
the bosom, iron the cloth next to it and the tab. Take
the shirt from the bosom board, place it, front down,
on the table, iron the back of the sleeve; turn the shirt,
iron the front of the sleeve and the front of the garment.
Fasten the neckband together, lay the shirt in shape,
bosom up, and iron a fold in the yoke near the band.
Turn the shirt over and fold sleeves onto the back.
Next , fold body of garment onto the back, making a
strip the width of the bosom. Fold this strip to size
of bosom and hang the garment to air. ·
Collars and Cuffs are ironed with the polisher first
lightly on the wrong side, then on the right side to dry
and polish. Curl them when quite dry 'with a common
iron, and turn the corners if desired. Before curling,
warm the collar with the iron, place it rightside down,
and hold iron in right hand on the end of collar toward
you. Take that end in your left hand, have edge of
iron close to it and, as the iron recedes, follow it closely
with the left hand. Do this several times, and from
both ends, until the collar assumes its proper shape.
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Practice and dexterity only will make an expert at this
work. If " domestic finish" is desired for linen, the gloss
can be taken off with a damp cloth. Wring the cloth as
dry as possible and rub lightly, preferably when the
linen is warm.
A damp cloth is necessary in thick starch to take out
wrinkles or remove dirt. Wring the cloth very dry and
work lightly with it- pat rather than rub. Always have
clean irons. If the iron sticks, it may be dirty or too
cool. Never return an iron to the fire without being
sure that it is clean.
Clear Starching
Thin Muslins and Infants' Caps and Dresses should
be clear starched. A very thin starch is used which
has a clear appearance, hence the name. This may be
made from corn starch, in the proportion of one level
tablespoonful of starch to one quart of water. Boil ten
minutes. Rice starch is even better. Make according
to directions given on page 28. It will probably be
necessary to dip a bit of material into the starch and
iron it to find out when the starch is right. The muslin
should be as stiff as when new, never stiff enough to
crack or rattle.
Use Ivory Soap for all fine work-and Ivory Soap
solution made with Ivory Soap or Ivory Soap Flakes
is better still. If the material is soiled, soak it,
then wash it very carefully, squeezing rather than
rubbing. If it must be rubbed, lay it on a piece of white
cloth, and rub both together between the hands. Boil
it in a bag to protect the delicate fabric; or, if not very
much soiled, pour abundance of absolutely boiling
water over it and let it stand. Rinse the material well,
blue it, and put it into the thin, hot starch. Squeeze
it out, and lay it between cloths for a few moments to
absorb the moisture. Shake out the material, and pat
or clap it between the hands until it is dry enough to
iron. Pull it gently into shape, put it on the table, and
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i
···-·-:·'· ·~ ' .
!
io
0 c::p
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
iron it on the right side unless it is embroidered. The
embroidery must be ironed on the wrong side 1 over
flannel, and then the muslin on the right. Being thin,
the muslin will dry out quickly . . Use a damp cloth
freely, and leave each part dry, smooth, and free from
wrinkles.
Colored Clothes
The work of the dyer has improved until now almost
all wash goods are considered fast in color. However,
this does not mean that they may be treated as you would
treat white clothes. The dyes are of two kinds: Sub­stantive,
those that combine with the material to be
dyed, and adjective, those that attach themselves to,
rather than combine with, the material. To the former
class belongs the wools and silks; to the latter, the linens
and cottons. From the tough, resistant character of
the linen and cotton fibres, we can understand that they
will not readily take up color and that, if they do, they
will part with it easily. Strong soaps, hot water, and
even sunshine tend to weaken their color, so that the
greatest care must be used in washing colored clothes,
especially if the color is delicate. We know that most
reds, pinks, and blacks are fast, but we are never sure
of anything until we have washed a sample and dried
it. If the color suffers, try to set it with a solution of
salt, white vinegar, borax, alum, or sugar of lead (a
strong poison). These may be used in the proportion
of one level tablespoonful of any one of them to a gallon
of water. Use only a "neutral" soap, or perhaps starch
water rather than soap; bran or oatmeal water may be
used in a similar way. Strain the bran or oatmeal
out of the water in which it has been cooked. The
starch water is very thin, and is used as you would use
suds. Ordinarily, good results are obtained by following
the directions given below:
Make a warm suds of Ivory Soap or Ivory Soap
Flakes and water, quickly wash, rinse, and hang out to
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
dry one garment at a time. Should the water be colored
by the goods, take fresh water for the next garment.
Never rub soap on the goods, nor the goods on the
board- except the edges of the hem if very much soiled.
Squeeze or rub gently by hand. When clean, rinse
several times, until the last water is clear, and use
acidified water if necessary to set the color. The use
of alum water will make garments less inflammable.
If you want to strengthen a blue, use bluing; a pink,
use red ink. Starch the garment at once in thin starch,
after turning it wrong side out; shake into shape, and
hang to dry in the shade. When dry, dampen and roll up
the garment, leaving it only a short time before ironing.
Muslins, prints, and ginghams should be ironed on the
wrong side whenever possible, as it makes the material
look like new.
Hosiery
Merino, or ordinary woolen hose, as well as silk hose,
must be washed according to directions given for wash­ing
flannels. Wash black or colored cotton hose in
clean suds; otherwise, white particles will adhere to
them. If the fastness of the color is in doubt, use cold
water, wash the foot first, holding the leg out of water.
Rub soap carefully on the foot, wash it, put in the entire
stocking, wash quickly, turn wrong side out, wash, rinse
and wring, stretch and shake it into shape, and hang it
to dry. When nearly dry, iron on the wrong side with
a warm (not hot) iron. · Put the hand into the foot of
the stocking and, as you draw out the hand, follow with
the iron, or fold the stocking at the seam and iron flat.
If stockings are embroidered the design must have no
fold or crease in it.
Woolens
Woolen material will easily shrink if carelessly handled.
(See chapter on fibres for explanation of shrinking.) A
"neutral" soap must be used. If a soap claims to wash
without shrinking, it does so only if you follow
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
carefully the directions that come with the soap. Strong
soaps or alkalies, except the milder ones- borax and
ammonia-weaken the fibre and make it more liable to
shrink. The rubbing on of soap of any kind is not
desirable, because you must get it out, and it may require
the rubbing of the material, which tends more than
anything else to mat the wool and shrink the garment.
Hot water and then cold must not be used, because
heating expands the fibres, and as they lie so close
together, they may interlock; then, when the cold
contracts the fibres, they cannot unlock. As a conse­quence,
the material shrinks. Extremes of temperature,
then, are to be avoided.
Shake the dust out of the flannel. Make warm suds
with solution of Ivory Soap or Ivory Soap Flakes. Have
it about 120 o Fahrenheit, that is, so the hands can very
comfortably be held in the water. If the garment is very
much soiled, add a half teaspoonful of household am­monia
for each gallon of water, and let the garment
soak for ten minutes; meanwhile, prepare another suds
a little warmer than the first. Draw the garment
through the hands, work it up and down, and squeeze
it, but do not rub soap on it or rub it on the board.
Put it through the wringer, turn the garment wrong
side out and put it through 'the second suds. If any
soiled spot does not yield to this treatment, lay
the garment upon the table or other smooth surface,
hold it straight, and rub the spot briskly with a small
brush. If necessary, use a little soap solution on
the brush. Rinse the garment quickly through
several waters of the same temperature as the
first water. If hard water is used for rinsing, soften
it with a little soap solution or ammonia. Rinse flannel
until the water is clear. Put it through the wringer
or squeeze the water out; do not twist it. Shake it
and hang it to dry where it is warm- not where it is so
hot that the garment will steam, nor where it is cold.
Guard against extremes of temperature. Stretch the
garment into shape as it dries. This is especially true
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
of ribbed underwear, which need not be ironed. Press
flannel when nt~arly dry, on the wrong side, until per­fectly
dry, using a moderately warm iron. Caution:
press, rather than rub and never have the iron so hot
that the flannel will steam. Closely twisted and woven
wool will shrink less than loosely woven materials.
Woolen dress goods of any kind must be washed the
same as flannels. Try first a sample, to see what treat­ment
is necessary. Set the color, if it runs, and work
quickly. Ammonia will usually brighten black goods.
Wring loosely from one water to the other, and if the
material wrinkles badly, take it from the last water
without wringing, and hang it by the edge to dry.
Put over the ironing sheet a cover of cotton cloth, fast
in color and about the color of the material to be ironed.
While yet damp, put the material on the table wrong
side up, and iron till perfectly dry, with a warm (not
hot) iron. Air the material, then roll, but do not fold
it, and it will look like new.
Sweaters or knitted articles of any kind will shrink
or lose their shape in washing unless care is taken. Wash
them as you would flannels, do not rub or twist them,
put them through the wringer, stretch them into shape
and lay them up,on towels to dry. Occasionally turn
and stretch them.
Blankets
Select a warm, sunny, breezy day for washing blankets.
First shake the dust out, then soak the blankets in warm
suds of Ivory Soap or Ivory Soap Flakes for thirty
minutes. Work them up and down in the water,
squeeze them against the sides of the tub, and put
them through the wringer, loosely adjusted, into another
strong suds of the same temperature as the first. Stir
about and soak for ten minutes, stretch soiled parts
over a smooth surface, a...n d rub with a brush, using a
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
little soap solution. Rinse in several warm waters­or
until both blanket and water are clean - then
hang to dry in the open air on curtain stretchers
if you have them, or put the blankets half over the line
so that they will dry straight; if border colors are likely
to run, hang selvage a few inches ov;er the line and pin
often. When perfectly dry, rub the surface with a
soft flannel cloth and hang them near a stove or in a warm
room for several hours. For each pair of blankets
allow a half c;:ake of Ivory Soap or enough Ivory Soap
· Flakes to make a foamy suds.
Silks
Silk Fibre is smooth and shiny, and for best results
requires the same treatment in the laundry as wool.
If rubbed hard, the fibre is broken and the shiny effect
lost. If boiled or pressed with a hot iron, the fibre
first stiffens then breaks. If the color in silk runs, try
a sample and set it with salt or vinegar as you would
cotton. Chloroform is best to revive color.
Wash silk carefully in warm water, with solution of
Ivory Soap or Ivory Soap Flakes. Soak twenty
minutes if necessary, and take fresh suds for the washing.
Do not rub silk except with a soft nail brush over a
smooth surface.. Rinse in several warm waters until
the last water is clear. Place between dry towels and
put through wringer loosely adjusted, or squeeze, not
twist, water from it and hang to dry where you can
watch it. When nearly dry, iron with a moderately hot
iron, until perfectly dry. A thin muslin spread over the
silk before ironing may give better results when material
is thin.
Pongee should be ironed when perfectly dry or thor­oughly
damp.
Silk Crepe, or silk of fancy weave, that does not
require ironing, may be taken from the last water with­out
wringing, spread straight and smooth upon ·a clean
table and allowed to dry there. It will look like new.
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Georgette Crepe, while damp, must be stretched and
ironed perfectly dry.
Wash Chiffon . in soapy water, rinse carefully, clap
dry, stretch into shape, and iron on the wrong side with
a cool iron.
Lay Ribbons out smooth upon the table and brush
them with a nail brush dipped in soapy water. Brush
both sides. When clean, rinse without squeezing, draw
through the hands, and while wet, spread straight and
true upon a clean, smooth surface to dry or when nearly
dry iron under a . cloth.
Silk-ribbed Underwear must be washed in warm suds
made of Ivory Soap or Ivory Soap Flakes, to which a
tablespoonful of household ammonia for each gallon of
water has been added. It may be soaked for ten
minutes, then quickly washed, rinsed, and dried. Do
not iron it, but stretch it until it is soft.
Wash Silk-embroidered Linen in solution of Ivory Soap
or Ivory Soap Flakes and water, rubbing soiled parts
with a brush. Rinse till clear. If color is inclined to
run, do not wring but lay between dry cloths and iron
immediately. Always iron wrong side up over several
thicknesses of flannel, to make the embroidery stand
out. When dry, turn it onto the right side and iron the
linen between the embroidery.
To renew Velvet pass over steam and brush lightly
against the nap meanwhile. A device can be bought
to attach to the nose of the teakettle, or steam can be
produced by covering an inverted hot flatiron with
several thicknesses of wet cloth over which the velvet is
drawn. ...
Corduroy or Velveteen may be soaked and washed in
warm soapy water, working it up and down to dislodge
the dirt, but never twisting, or wringing it, or brushing
it hard. Rinse in the same way in several' warm waters
and hang dripping wet to dry.
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
Laces
Real laces are rarely washed because they thicken
slightly, and require very careful handling to make them
appear like new.
Wash White Lace in warm water with Ivory Soap or
Ivory Soap Flakes and a little ammonia. Soak for an
hour, then use fresh water. Do not rub, but squeeze
the dirt out. If the lace is very yellow, put it in a glass
jar, add soapy water and one-half teaspoon borax and
set it in the sun for a day or two. When it is clean,
rinse well. If you wish the lace cream color, add strong
coffee to the last rinsing water. If you wish it white, add
a little bluing. To give lace the body it had when new,
stiffen it in gum arabic water, made by dissolving a
piece of gum arabic the size of a pea in one-half pint of
boiling water. Lay the lace between cloths to' absorb
the moisture, clap it until nearly dry, pull it into
shape, and pin it straight and true onto flannel. Be
sure that each point is in shape and that every loop of
the pearl edge has a pin to hold it in place.
Wash Black Lace in one cup of strong coffee to which
one tablespoonful of ammonia has been added. Rinse
it in gum arabic water, clap until nearly dry, and pin
it into shape on flannel or iron under black muslin with
a warm (not hot) iron.
Shake and brush Lace Curtains to remove the dust,
soak them in soapy water over · night. Work the cur­tains
gently up and down in the water and squeeze them
between the hands to get the dirt out. Put them into
clean warm suds with ammonia added,. and keep chang­ing
the water until the curtains are clean. Never
wring curtains by hand; lay them on a strip of cloth
and put carefully through the wringer. Rinse well in
several waters, and put through hot, moderately thick
starch. If the curtains are white, the starch should
be blued; if cream color, strong coffee should be added to
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APPROVED METHODS FOR HOME LAUNDERING
it. Pin each point carefully to the drying frame and set
in the air to dry. Two or three curtains may be dried
at the same time on one frame. If you have no frame,
lay clean sheets over the floor of an unused room, stretch
the curtains into shape, square and true, and pin each
point so that it will not slip. If points are out of shape
when dry, they may be dampened with a cloth and
ironed.
Leather
Leather gloves of the washable kind should be put
on the hands and washed in soapy water. Rub soiled
parts with a cloth, if very soiled put powder on the
cloth, but do not use a brush because it would roughen
the leather. Rinse the gloves in warin water, slightly
soapy if water is hard, stretch them very little but blow
them full of air to hold their shape, and dry in warm,
never hot, air.
If gloves are not washable put them on the hands and
· rub with Ivory Soap jelly, (see page 24) using a dry soft
cloth and little soap, to protect the color.
Wash Chamois as you would flannel in warm soapy
water. Stretch the chamois as it dries and rub it between
the hands to keep it soft.
A teaspoonful of oil or glycerine added to the last
water in which leather is rinsed will help to keep it
pliable.
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