Approved methods for home laundering

              SPECIAL COLU:CTIONS .A: RAltE 800&:5
WALTER CLINTON jACKSON LIBRARY
THE UNJVBRSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA AT CRBBNSBORO
HOME ECONOMICS PAMPHLETS
The University of North Carolina
at Greensboro
JACKSON LIBRARY
Special Collefiions
·•
APPROVED METHODS .
for HOME LAUNDERING
M A R Y B EA L S VA I L
Of two countritJ, with an equal amount of populatio!l, we
may declare with positive certainty that the wealthiest and
most highly civilized is that which consumes the greattJt
weight of soap.-LIEBIG.
PUBLISHED BY
THE PROCTER & GAMBLE CO.
CINCINNATI, 0 .
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COPYRIGHT I 906
THE PROCTER & GAMBLE CO.,
CINCINNATI, OHIO.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTORY
VALUE OF LAUNDRY "WORK,
SuN,
AIR,
"WATER,­CHEMICAL,
MECHANICAL,
P URIFIERS
STAINS
INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAK!"G OUT,
COTTON,
LINEN,
WOOL,
SILK, -
IVORY,
LENOX, -
P. & G. NAPHTHA,
SOAP SOLUTIO",
STARCH,
BLUING, -
vVAX, -
REAGENTS,
FABRICS
SOAPS
LAUNDRY A IDS
EQUIPMENT FOR HOME LAUNDRY
LIST OF AR'fiCLES NEEDED, WITH PRICES,
PRACTICAl_. LAUNDRY WORK
PLAN OF .WEEK'S \VORK, -
ORDER OF DAY'S WORK,
WHITE CLOTHES,
THICK STARCHING,
CLEA.R STARCHING, -
COLORED CLOTHES,
HOSIERY,
\VOOL,
SILK, -
LACES AND CURTAIKS,
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7
8
8
9
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16
16
17
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19
19
19
20
2I
23
25
25
- 38- 39
39-40
4I-56
57-6!
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62
63
63- 66
66
67-68
PUBLISHER'S PREFACE
T HIS booklet is published by The Procter & Gamble
Co., of Cincinn;;tti, Ohio.
It is believed to be the most complete as well as
the most reliable publication ever issued dealing with the
problems of home laundering.
The information it contains is of value to experienced as
well as inexperienced housewives.
The firm of Procter & Gamble was established in I 83 7.
The Procter & Gamble Co. was incorporated in 1890. Its
Ivorydale, Ohio, plant is the largest soap factory in the
United States. Branch factories are located at Kansas City,
Kan., and at Arlington, Staten Island, N . Y.
Of the many brands of soap made by The Procter &
Gamble Co. , at least three are known from one end of the
country to the other-"Ivory," " Lenox" and "Procter &
Gamble ( P . & G.) Naphtha Soap."
Each of these soaps has a field of its own.
Ivory is used for the bath and toilet as well as for such other
purposes as require a mild, neutral and absolutely pure soap
-a soap which, because it contains no "free" ( uncom­bined)
alkali, can be used without hesitation for cleansing
articles for which ordinary laundry soaps are unsafe and
unsatisfactory.
Lenox is one of the best and, at the same time, one of the
cheapest of laundry soaps. It can be used for every pur­pose
for which a high grade, well made, laundry soap should
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6 Appro<ued Methods for Home Laundering
be used. There are cheaper laundry soaps than Lenox. But
it does not pay to use them. Many of them are badly made.
Some of them are positively harmful. None of them is as
good as Lenox. For every day use around the house, it is
without an equal.
P. & G. Naphtha Soap simplifies the work of laundering
to an extent that is almost beyond belief. Use it a11d you
will have no more ''Blue Mondays," no more hot kitchens,
no more backaches from bending over tubs of steaming
water, no more hard rubbing of clothes up and down the
washboard. Time, labor, fuel and money saved-and
cleaner clothes t~an you have ever had before.
THE VALUE OF .LAUNDRY WORK
- PURIFIERS
T HE one great privilege of rich and poor alike is the
possession of clean clothes. Water is free, soap is
cheap, and sunshine and fresh air are everywhere.
For centuries we have been training ourselves to like the
"feel" of clean, smooth garments, the odor of freshly laun­dered
linen, and the appearance of clothes clean and uni­form
in color, free from wrinkles, and straight as to threads
of material. We may not have known that this very clean­liness
is the strongest supporter of good health , but it is.
The skin is made more active by the fresh clothing, which,
in turn, absorbs the impurities thrown off hy the skin.
Moreover, clean, boiled clothes never carry disease germs.
· In discussing any subject, we must first learn of the ma­terials
to be handled. ·with the knowledge of these, intel­ligent
work and satisfactory results are sure to follow. In
our special subject, HOME LAuNDERING, the information side
will be discussed under the several heads: Purifiers, Soil,
Fabrics, and Laundry Aids.
Sun, air, and water-Nature's purifiers-stand first and
are indispensable. The sun's rays have wonderful proper­ties,
direct and indirect, in the form of heat. Nothing can
compare with them. Many forms of minute plant life,
moulds, and certain bacteria, will not grow in the sunshine;
and sun and air, together with moisture , break up harmful
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8 Appro'bed Methods for Home Laundering
compounds, rendering them harmless. Moist heat at boil­ing
temperature or higher kills all life if kept at that tem­perature
long enough. The lower the form of life, the
longer will it withstand heat. So, in order that clothes may
be sterile, that is, free from life, they must be boiled at
least ten minutes, and preferably twenty. Dry heat kept at
a higher temperature for a longer time acts in the same way,
but if not controlled, it may injure the fabric. Ironing
applies heat for so short a time that it cannot be depended
on to purify clothes.
Air, being one-fifth oxygen, aids in the breaking up of
harmful compounds and, when in motion, scatters dirt.
Water is our chief dirt carrier. When in motion, water
holds in suspension particles of dirt, which float away.
Much of the soil of clothes may be dissolved in water , or,
by the aid of soap, an emulsion is formed and the dirt is
carried off.
Primitive methods of washing depended almost entirely
upon flowing water to cleanse clothes, and washing in
streams is still the method of cleansing used among people
of simple habits to-day, a flat stone, upon which to rub or
pound the clothes, being the only aid, unless soap is used.
More depends upon the kind of water we have for laun­dry
work than upon anything else. Soft water is best, but
it may absorb many things in its journey from the clouds.
After air and roofs are washed, rain water may be stored
for use, but if we get water from a stream or lake, it may
bring with it particles of plants or soil. These may be
strained out, or the water may be allowed to settle, the
clear water being then carefully poured off. Water which
has soaked into the ground and appeared again in stream,
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Appro<vea Methoas for Home Launaermg 9
lake, spring, or well, may have absorbed some mineral
matter that may make it undesirable for laundry purposes.
The most common mineral found in water is lime, which
makes water hard. Temporary hardness of water is most
common. It is due to a soluble lime compound which will
combine with soap to form a greasy scum. To overcome
this difficulty water should be boiled. In case the hardness
is not removable by boiling it is called permanently hard
water. To overcome this add lime water or weak carbonat­ed
alkali before boiling. In softening water with an alkali,
only as much as is necessary to do the work is desirable.
More acts upon clothing and hands, weakening fabric and
skin. The larger the amount and the greater the strength
of the alkali, the worse the effect.
The alkalies commonly known and used in the house!wld
are:
AMMONIA, a gas dissolved in water, and mild in its action if diluted;
it readily evaporates if heated. It is comparatively expensive.
BoRAX, a powder, mild and expensive.
SAL SODA, OR CARBONATED ALKALI, a crystal or powder, stronger
and cheaper than borax.
PoTASH, OR LYE, a liquid or solid, strong but little used in modern
times. It is derived from wood ashes by a process of leeching; is used
in making "soft soap."
CAUS'l'rC POTASH AND CAUSTIC SODA are very strong and not
expensive, but are rarely known in the household. One or the other
is almost invariably used in the manufacture of laundry soaps.
SOAP, a very essential purifier, is discussed in a separate chapter.
RUBBING, POUNDING AND RINSING are valuable mechanical aids
in purifying clothes.
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SOIL
T HE soil in clothing may be of two kinds. If it is the
product of life-organic-it may be perspiration, oily
secretions or dead skin, food material or stains, and
usually bacteria of some kind. 'I'he disease bacteria are few
in number; the harmless, helpful kinds are many. When
organic material of any kind begins to give off an odor, we
know that bacteria are at work. 'I'his is especially true of
clothes that have been next to the body. All bacteria can
be killed by boiling.
Of inorganic soil we have dust, ground up rock, which is
usually mixed with organic material, and stains .
.Stains must have special consideration. They will often
come out with cold water alone, and this should first
be tried. Stains must be removed before the garment is
washed. 'I'hey come out most easily when fresh and moist.
Stains will usually be set, that is, partake of the nature of
dyes, when acted upon by soap and heat. 'I'o remove stains
after they have been washed, without doing serious injury
to the fabric, is almost impossible.
We discussed alkalies in their relation to hard water.
Now we want to consider adds-known to us ordinarily as
sour-tasting materials, for example, vinegar and lemon juice.
In removing stains they are often used. Acids and alkalies
act quite differently-they neutralize each other, that is, one
destroys the characteristic properties of the other when they
are brought together in the right proportions. Acids are of
many kinds and varying strengths, and should be carefully
used.
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STAINS.
WE will consider stains individually, but first let us
take up the methods of removing them, whether
we use boiling water, an acid, an alkali, a bleach­ing
agent, or a volatile liquid.
If boiling water is to be used, stretch the stained part
over a large bowl or saucepan, have a teakettle full of
absolutely boiling water and pour water through the stain
until it disappears. Hold the kettle high so that the water
may fall with force upon the stain.
If an acid is necessary, stretch the stained part over a
bowl of boiling water and with a medicine dropper or an
old tooth-brush apply very dilute muriatic acid (I %) to the
wet stain; occasionally dip the stain into the water and use
acid again. When the stain disappears, rinse well in clear
water and then in tepid or cold water in which a little
ammonia has been poured-just enough to give a slight
odor. Ammonia will overcome any bad effect the acid might
have upon the cloth and will itself evaporate. Oxalic acid
may be used in the same way if the stain will not yield
readily. Oxalic acid comes in crystals and muriatic acid in
liquid form . Both can be purchased at the drug store and
are violent poisons, but in the I% strength mentioned muri­atic
acid is harmless. Strong muriatic acid should be kept
in a glass-stoppered bottle.
If an alkali is required , dilute ammonia is to be preferred,
the method of procedure being the same as in the case of an
acid.
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12 Approcved Methods for Home Laundering
If a bleach is desired, one of several methods may be nsed.
The sun bleaches by oxidation in presence of moisture;
the efficiency is increased by green vegetable coloring matter.
All colors are affected. Wet cloth or stain and lay it upon
the grass in strong sunshine. Keep it moist. The process is
a slow one but it does not injure the fabric.
Sulphur fumes bleach by deoxidation and are applicable to
few kinds of stains, but most fruit stains will yield to them.
Results are not per!llanent. Place a lump of sulphur on an
old dish, have a funnel ready to confine the fumes; put a
live coal or a match on the sulphur, invert the funnel over
it, and hold the moist stain in the fumes. Sometimes a sul­phur
match will furnish gas enough. Do not get the burn­ing
sulphur on the skin nor breathe the fumes. The pres­ence
of moisture is absolutely necessary.
Peroxide of hydrogen and dilute ammonia will bleach by
oxidation. The results are permanent, and particularly ap­plicable
to woolen fabrics. The ammonia must be diluted
in the proportions of one teaspoonful of household ammonia
to one pint of water. Use equal parts of fresh peroxide of
hydrogen and dilute ammonia. Moisten the stain in this
liquid until it disappears.
Chloride of lime bleaches by oxidation; the results are
permanent, but unless the bleach is thoroughly washed out
the fabric will be injured. A more desirable form of this
bleach is as follows :
• JAVELLE WATER.
I lb. sal soda, or preferably pearl ash,
}.(lb. chloride of lime,
2 qts . cold water.
Approcved Methods for Home Laundering
Mix thoroughly, let it stand several hours. Pour off
clear liquid and bottle for use. Keep in a dark, cool place.
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To use Javelle water, stretch the stained article and rub
the liquid into it, rinse quickly in clear water, and brush
again if necessary. Always rinse in ammonia water at last.
Ether, gasoline, benzine, alcohol, and chloroform, or in
fact any liquid material that vaporizes easily, must always
be used in daylight, and preferably in the open air. If in
the house, no lamp or fire of any kind can be in the room,
and the windows or doors must be open to carry off the
vapors. Never put one of these materials on a wet cloth.
The fumes are very inflammable, and serious damages would
be done were these precautions not borne in mind.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAKING
OUT STAINS
BLOOD-If fresh or recently dried, soak in cold or tepid water, rub
out; when stain is brown and nearly gone, use soap and warm
water. If very dry, soak and wash out; use J ave11e water or
peroxide of hydrogen.
BRAS8---Rub with rancid lard or butter before washing. W<1rm white
wine vinegar is a solvent for brass or copper, but must not be
used on colored goods.
COCOA-Wash in cold water first, then rinse and pour boiling water
through it. If resistant, try a bleaching agent.
COFFEE-Pour boiling water through it from a height. If resist­ant,
try a bleaching agent.
FRUIT -Alcohol softens and dissolves many fruit stains. If the alco­hol
is warmed over hot water it will be more efficient; later, use
boiling water poured from a height. If resistant, try sulphur
fumes, dilute muriatic acid, or a bleaching agent.
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14 Appro'Ved Methods for Ho'ie Laundering
GRASS-Alcohol will dissolve the green coloring matter of plants and
is recommended when the material cannot be washed.
GREASE or OIL-Wash with cold water and soap first, and use solvents
after drying, if necessary. Axle grease, rub with lard and let it
stand to soften, then wash out. For fabrics that cannot be
washed, the material may be treated with gasoline. Rub always
toward the centre of the stain, and have several folds of clean
cloth under the spot. Use always by daylight and in a draft.
Ether is better than gasoline and is used in the same way.
Powdered chalk or blotting paper may be used to absorb the oil.
Kerosene will evaporate. Vaseline stains should be soaked in
kerosene before washing. Chloroform, or preferably carbona,
is a better solvent than gasoline, and with either there is no
danger of flame or explosion.
INK-Place stained portio1,1 in sweet or sour milk and allow it to shnd
several days. Change milk, wash out in clear water, and try
again, if necessary. Unless you know the character of the ink,
it is hard to know what to recommend. Try peroxide of hydro­gen
and <lilute ammonia if the stain is fresh, lemon and salt,
acid oxalate of potash, known as ~>alts of lemon, or oxalic acid,
and lastly Javelle water.
Red I1tk-Wash with cold water or water and ammonia. If it
does not come out, use Javelle water.
IRON RUST -Lemon juice, salt, and hot sunshine may dissolve the
stain, but mm·e often muriatic acid is necessary. Oxalic acid
may be fried, acid oxalate of potash, known as salts of lemon,
or oxalic acid and dilute muriatic acid. If available, ox-gall
will remove iron stain.
MEDICINE-Alcohol usually dissolves medicines. For iodine, use
hyposulphite of soda or chloroform.
MILDEW- Is really a plant, a mould growing on the fibre. It shows
itself in warm weather when clothes are kept damp for a day or
two. If fresh it may be removed, but if old it will not come out.
Appro'Ved Methods for Home Laundering 15
'Net in strong soap suds, cover with a paste of soap and
powdered chalk, or chalk and salt, and put in the strong sun­light
for hours. If it does not yield to these, Javelle water or
bleaching agents may be used, but the fibre is liable to suffer.
MILK OR CREAM- Wash out with cold water, and later use soap
and cold water.
MUCUS, as in handkerchiefs, should be washed in ammonia and
water before using soap. In case of a heavy cold it is best to
soak all handkerchiefs in a strong solution of boracic acid for
several hours.
PAINT OR TAR- If fresh antl·washable, use soap and water; if not
washable, use gasoline. If dry and washable, soften with lard
or oil and then use soap and water; if not washable, soften and
wash in gasoline. If color is delicate, soften with oil and rub
out with ether or chloroform. The most effectual remedy for
dry paint or varnish is amyl acetate or resin spirits; soften stain
with one of them and wash out with gasoline.
PERSPIRATION-Use strong soap solution and. let the garment lie
in the sunshine. The perspiration under the arms is different
from that of the rest of the body and requires an acid to neutral­ize
it. Use dilute muriatic acid.
SUGAR OR GUM-Dissolve with warm water if washable; with
dilute alcohol if not washable.
TEA-Rub out in cold water first, then pour boiling water through it.
Glycerine may be used to soak the stain.
WAX-Cover the spot, both sides, with brown or blotting paper and
apply a warm (not hot) iron. It may be dissolved by hot
alcohol.
WINE-If a red wine, cover with a layer of salt while fresh, then use
boiling water. Moist salt and sunshine may be used if it does
not come out easily. If a yellow wine, wash first with cold
water, then with soap and water.
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FABRICS
T HE fabrics that we deal with ordinarily are of both
. vegetable and animal origin.
The vegetable fibres, cotton and linen, are of a
cellulose, woody nature, and do not readily combine with
other materials. Their resistance makes them tough, strong,
and not as easily dyed as animal fibres .
Under the microscope the cotton fibre is ribbon-like,
somewhat thickened at the edges, tapering toward the end,
and slightly twisted. The fibres come hom the fruit pod
of the plant, are from one to two and a third inches long,
and seem like a flattened tube, probably a plant cell.
I,inen comes from the stem of the flax plant. The fibres
are from ten to twelve inches long and under the microscope
are apparently straight, transparent tubes.
Cold dilute acids, or alkalies, will gradually weaken both
cotton and linen fibres. Concentrated acids and alkalies
act upon both according to concentration and time allowed.
Linen is more strongly affected by alkalies than cotton.
With concentrated acids cotton is converted into parchment­like
material first, then gradually falls to pieces. With
concentrated alkalies cotton becomes thicker, transparent,
lustrous, is in fact mercerized, then decomposes. Sal soda
(Sodium carbonate) acts but mildly on either cotton or linen.
Moist chloride of lime and sunlight weaken both fibres, and
·if boiled with a weak solution of chloride of lime, the fibres
grow weaker the longer the contact. This material is used
in bleaching b.oth fibres, and the fact that unbleached ma­terials
are stronger than bleached is thus accounted for.
The animal fibres ordinarily used are wool and silk. Both
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Appro<vec/ Methods for Home Laundering 17
are nitrogenous in character, one-wool-being hair-li~e,
the other-silk--being gum-like. Both are more easily in­jured
than vegetable fibres, silk being more delicate than wool.
Wool is composed of numberless sections or sheaths, one
growing out of the next, and each sheath with more or less
jagged edges. They form a tube with from one thousand
to three thousand sections to the inch. These ragged-edged
sheaths explain what is known as shrinking. When we
think how closely the fibres lie in cloth, we can under­stand
how the jagged edges may interlock with rubbing
or with the expansion and contraction of heat and cold in
the water with which we wash flannels. The wool fibres
are from one to eleven inches long.
All alkalies act on wool. The effect depending upon the .~
kind, concentration, temperature of solution, and duration
of contact. Cold dilute caustic alkalies are destructive,
but if hot they will dissolve the wool fibre. Sal soda makes
the color yellow, the fibre harsh and less elastic. Ammonia
has the least action. Dilute acids roughen the fibre but
concentrated acids disintegrate it. Chloride of lime injures
the fibre and, if hot, destroys it.
Silk, the product of the silk-worm just as it enters the
chrysalis state, is a lustrous, strong, elastic fibre. The fibre
is double, coming from two glands in the head through one
opening, and is from I I ~ to 4I Yz feet long.
All alkalies act upon silk according to kind, concentra­tion,
temperature of solution, and duration of co-ntact. The
lustre is first impaired and then the fibre is finally dissolved .
Dilute acids roughen the fibre but concentrated acids dis­integrate
it. Both silk and wool are readily affected by dry
heat; silk first stiffens, then breaks.
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SOAP
I N very early times soap was unknown. Clothes were
rubbed and beaten in running water to loosen the dirt.
The oily dirt in the clothes is insoluble, that is, it is
not removable by water. As a consequence the labor of re­moving
it is so great that the fabric is liable to be injured.
Later it was discovered that wood ashes would lighten the
labor of washing, but if they were used too freely not only
the dirt but the hands and the fabric itself were injured.
Soap is a combination of a caustic alkali with a fat or,
more properly speaking, with a fatty acid. The fat is
broken up into two parts-fatty acid and glycerine-by
means of alkali and heat. The fatty acid combines with
alkali and the glycerine is left free; glycerine is a by-product
of every soap factory. Potash, soda ash, and caustic soda
are the alkalies most frequently used in soap making. Pot­ash
produces a soft soap, while the soda, which is used ex­clusively
in the soap factories in the United States, produces
a good, hard soap. Among other materials used in soap are
tallow, grease, cottonseed oil, cocoanut oil, cottonseed
foots, corn oil, olive ·oil, olive oil foots, palm oil, castor oil,
and resin. One or more of these products are used at will.
A fixed amount of alkali is required to saponify a definite
quantity of fat or oil; when the proper proportions are
adhered to the result is a "neutral" soap. A neutral soap is
one in which there is no "free" (uncombined) alkali or fat.
Resin is used in yellow laundry soaps. A small percentage
of high-grade resin does not injure the quality of the soap.
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Appro'Oed Methods for Home Laundering 19
In fact, it aids in forming suds, which carries off the dirt; but
resin in excess or of a low grade makes undesirable soap.
Soap owes its cleansing power to its solubility and its at­traction
for "dirt." In hot water soap dissolves perfectly,
but as the water cools it seems to separate, especially if
there is much water present. Hot soap solution does the
best work. The most plausible explanation of the detergent
value of soap is that it is an excellent emulsifying agent:
the dirt in clothes is largely of an oily nature, and oil is
easily emulsified.
In choosing soap, the use to which it is to be put must be
considered. A white, neutral, floating soap, like Ivory, can
be use~ for all toilet purposes, and is also the be.st soap for
silks, woolens, laces, and fine muslins. It will affect the fa­bric
less than any other kind and, being white, leaves no
color to be rinsed out or removed later. The light brown
soap, like Lenox, is the universal laundry soap. The small
amount of resin in it gives the color (as well perhaps as the
darker fats used). The resin helps to form the suds, which
acts as a dirt carrier.
As a rule, naphtha soaps are lighter in color than ordinary
laundry soaps and contain no resin. Naphtha or a petroleum
product akin to naphtha but less volatile is incorporated in
the soap. The petroleum oil is a valuable solvent and adds to
the effectiveness of the soap. The Procter & Gamble
(P. & G.) Naphtha Soap is white; showing the high grade
of materials that are used to form the neutral soap which is
its foundation. A good naphtha soap lessens the work of
rnbbing and for that reason is popular with housewives who
do their own washing. It also does away with boiling if
plenty of water, sunshine and fresh air are used but an
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2() Approved Methods for Home Laundering
occasional boiling is even then necessary to make clothes
pure and sweet smelling.
To use Naphtha soap, shave it into warm (not hot) water
and soak the clothes in it for one hour, 6r better still, over
night. Very dirty clothes should have soap rubbed into
them before soaking. Rinse clothes out of water in which
they have been soaked, look them over for soiled spots which
may need rubbing, rinse, blue, and hang out.
Soap powders are powdered soap, to which has been
added more or less washing soda and, sometimes, a scourer.
Home-made soap is unsatisfactory. Even with the great­est
of care in making, soap made by what is known as the
cold process is not perfectly combined, and it conta}ns all
the impurities in the original fat. It would be far better
for housekeepers to sell the fats and get a good soap for use.
Soap Solution.-For laundry purposes one bar of ordinary
laundry soap may be cut up and dissolved in three or four
quarts of hot water; this can be used at once while hot, or
kept in a glass or china jar until needed.
Ivory soap solution, if sufficiently concentrated, will form
a jelly on cooling; it is valuable in cleaning material for
which you would not use soap and water-gloves, leather,
and things of a similar nature. The proportions are one
small cake of Ivory soap to two quarts of water. Shave the
soap into the water and cook about ten minutes, or until
perfectly dissolved. Use hot for any purpose, but only
when cold and with a dry cloth for cleaning gloves, etc.
The best results are obtained if the glove is kept on the
hand during the process of cleaning.
LAUNDRY AIDS
MOST important of the little extras in a laundry is
starch. It is of vegetable origin, and found in
many parts of the plant, but principally in the seed,
root, or tuber, where it is stored as food for the germ when
it begins to sprout. The tiny starch granules, known to us
as a tasteless, odorless, white powder, cannot be distinguished
one from the other except by the microscope, when their shape,
size, and markings are recognized. When subjected to heat
and moisture these granules absorb moisture, burst their
envelopes and combine with the water to form a gelatinous
mass, more or less thick, according to the amount of water
used. It is this peculiarity of starch which makes it valu­able
in the laundry. The threads of the cloth are coated
with starch, and the spaces between the threads are filled.
'I'his gives stiffness to the material when dry, and prevents
its mussing, soiling, or staining easily. The usual sources
of starch are corn, wheat, rice, and potato. Sago and tapio­ca
both furnish excellent starch, similar in its qualities to
rice starch.
Rice starch is capable of great dilution, the granule being
one of the smallest; it is used for fine muslins. It is manu­factured
and used very largely in Europe, and is little
known here.
Corn starch is cheap and in general use; its stiffening
quality is high.
Wheat starch is used in public laundries because its results
• ( 2T)
22 Appro'Ded Methods for Home Laundering
• are satisfactory, the material being not only stiff but n1bre
flexible han when corn starch is used .
.Potato starch is little used except for the filling of cloth
in factories.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING STARCH
Mix starch with a small quantity of cold water to a creamy
consistency, add a little more cold water, and then the de­sired
amount of absolutely boiling water, stirring constantly.
Put the starch over the fire and boil it for several minutes,
to insure complete cooking, and stir it all the time it is
cooking. Cool or dilute for use. If oil, borax, or wax are
used, they should be cooked with the starch, but bluing is
added later.
The proportions for cooked starch are one measurement
of starch to eight of boiling water, for thick starch; and one
measurement of starch to sixteen of boiling water, for thin
starch.
Uncooked or partly cooked starch will stick and make
trouble for the ironer. (Irons must always be hot for
starched clothes.) The amount of starch needed is regu­lated
by the number of .clothes to be starched. Starch can
be made thinner by adding water, and it always grows thin­ner
with use. Starched clothes must never be stiff enough
to rattle.
THICK STARCH
Mix Yz cup starch and
}( cup cold water, add
}( level teaspoonful shaven white wax or lard and
4 cups ( 1 qt.) boiling water.
Let it boil up se\·eral times, to be sure that wa;_ is melted
and mixed and starch cooked. Add a little bluing and
•
Appro'Ved Methods for Home Laundering
set dish in a pan of cold water until it is cool enough to
handle.
THIN STARCH
In a clean granite kettle put
Yz cup starch,
)<( level teaspoonful lard or twice as much borax, stir
smooth with
Yz cup of cold water, then, stirring rapidly, add
3 pints of boiling water and continue stirring until it
boils thoroughly. Have holder ready to lift it from the
fire, or it will boil over. Add
I pint of cold water to thin it and reduce the heat,
and enough bluing to counteract the yellow color of the
starch. Turn starch into a large dish. If carefully made,
it need not be strained.
RICE STARCH
Wash )<( cup rice, put into
I quart water, boil it slowly, stir often at first, keep
up the quantity of water, and cook until the rice is a pulp.
Add I quart boiling water, and strain through a flannel
bag (without pressing). If too thick, dilute it with cold
water, and use while hot.
RAW STARCH
To 3 tablespoonsful of the plain starch, add
I teaspoonful borax and
I pint of tepid water. Stir well and use at once.
If prepared starch is used, make in the same way, but
do not add borax.
After using, allow the starch, if clean, to stand and set­tle,
pour the water off, and dry the starch. It may be
used again as raw starch, or, better, may be made into
cooked starch.
BLUING
23
Sunshine, moisture, and fresh air are the greatest bleach­ers.
Could we command a clean grass plot, pure air, and
..
•
• 24 Appro'Oed Methods for Home Laundering
sunshine, there would be no need of bluing. Clothes be­come
yellow from careless washing, dark colored soaps,
stains, or impure water. To cover up this telltale color, we
use bluing. Bluing is sold in solid or liquid form. The
solid is usually insoluble, and is much used. It never dis­solves,
but the fine particles of blue are all through the
water while it is in motion, and vvill settle when the water
is undisturbed. These particles lodge in the cloth and give
it a bluish-white color.
Indigo , a solid blue, was originally a vegetable product,
but is now manufactured chemically. It was the first bluing
known. It varies greatly in quality, and is little used at
present.
Ultramarine blue was originally the stone lapis lazuli,
ground fine , but is now manufactured chemically and sold
in little blue balls.
Aniline blue, either solid or liquid , is a product of coal
tar, and is a strong dye. This blue is used almost exclu­sively
by the public laundries. It will not set in an alkaline
medium, therefore the clothes must be rinsed free from soap
before using it. To make sure of the color, a little acid is
added to the water before the clothes are put in. Being a
dye, it is not easy to wash out if too much is used.
Prussian blue is usually sold in liquid form. It was first
manufactured at Berlin, hence its name. Being soluble, it
is easy to use, and gives a bright blue to the clothes. Prus­sian
blue is a salt of iron, and, with an alkali, changes to
iron rust. If the clothes are rinsed free of soap, it may be
used with good results. If careless work is done, you may
find the clothes yellow or rusted in fine spots, and be unable
to account for it. You can assure yourself that the liquid
Appro<oed Methods for Home Laundering
------'---
25
is Prussian blue by heating a little of it with a strong solu- ~
tion of sal soda. The mixture will turn yellowish red and
precipi~ate what is knownas iron rust.
Every laundry cupboard would be more complete if sup­plied
with the following materials:
BEESWAX or PARAFFINE, used to fill up and make smooth sad
irons. It should be tied in a cloth for easier handling.
COMMON SALT, a neutral compound, used as a scourer for soiled
irons, or to set colors.
AMMONIA, iu liquid form (household ammonia), and
BORAX, a white powder. Both being mild alkalies, they are used
where soaking rather than rubbing is desirable to loosen the
dirt, and the color is not to be considered.
SAL SODA, or washing soda, is used for testing, and to ''break" hard
water.
JAVELLE WATER is used to take out stains, and to bleach.
MURIATIC ACID, dilute, a liquid, and
OXALIC ACID, in crystal form, are used to take out stains. A medi­cine
dropper is desirable to use with these, as the skin is easily
roughened by them.
VINEGAR, used to set colors. It should be colorless.
GRAIN ALCOHOL, used to dissolve sugar, some medicine, and
grass stains.
ETHER will dissolve fat or oil from the more delicate fabrics.
KEROSENE is a solvent, used in washing and cleaning rubber.
GASOLINE is used to take out staii1s and clean gloves and ribbons.
Being very inflammable, it must be used with great care and
where there is no flame.
SULPHUR is used as a bleacher, When burned, the fumes must be
brought in contact with a moist sbin.
POWDERED CHALK or FULLER'S EARTH is used to absorb
stains.
SOAP should be bought in quantity and kept in a clean, dry place.
If allowed to harden, there is less waste in using.
•
•
EQUIPMENT FOR HOME LAUNDRY
TH~ RooM, used for laundry work, should be light and
atry.
The STOVE, if for laundry work exclusively, should
be one made for t he purpose. It need never be blacked.
Cost, $650.
TuBs, if stationary, should be porcelain lined. Slate is
next best, but has seams, which are undesirable. Tubs are
also made of cement. Wood is too absorptive to be clean.
The height of stationary tubs from the floor is rarely right
for the average woman. This should be considered when
they a re set. Portable tubs are made of fibre, galvanized
iron, enamel, or wood. The wooden ones are best if made
of cedar and brass-bound, but all wooden tubs are heavy,
and will warp and leak if not kept in a damp place or with
water in them. Tubs of all kinds must be kept clean, but
Sapolio must not be used. A scourer of any kind roughens
the surface anu makes it easier for the dirt to lodge. A
strong soap or sal soda will keep the galvanized tub brigh t,
but at the expense of the plate. When that is off, the sheet
iron foundation will rust.
C{Jst. No estimate can be given for stationary tubs.
They are usually put in when the house is built, and the
local plumber can be consulted. Fibre Tub, $r.35; Galvan­ized
Iron Tub, 8sc.; Wooden Tub, $r.25.
Three tubs are necessary for good work.
A WASH BENCH should be of the right height for the
(26)
Appro'Ved Methods for Home Laundering 27
LAUNDRY STOVE
•
28 Apprgvecl Msthocls f01' Home Laundering
user. Thirty-six inches or less from top of tub to floor is
considered right. The bench may have pegs to hold the
tubs in place, and often has a support for the wringer set
between the tubs.
Cost, $I.05 to $I.25.
A RuBBING BoARD is often moulded into the stationary
tub, but this is rarely used, probably because it is not of the
right height or slant. Portable boards are made of brass,
zinc, or glass, and as long as they are not broken or ragged,
there seems to be little choice in them, except that the
rougher ones are better for dirty clothes.
Cost, 35c. to 75c.
WASHING MACHINES are very helpful for heavy clothes
and where large washings are the rule. Many washing
machines are wood-lined, have a kneading motion, and are
worked by a lever or crank. Others have an inverted cone-,
worked by a lever, which presses down into the wet clothes
and sucks the dirt up. The clothes may have to be looked
over for soiled spots, which must be rubbed. The machine
must be kept clean, free from dust and· rust, and out of- the
weather.
Cost, $3.95 up.
A WRINGER saves not only time and strength but the
clothes as well. A good one will last for years if well
cared for. Always clean and dry it after using. A little
kerosene will brighten the rubber when it becomes dull or
stained , but remember that kerosene cleans by eating off a
thin layer of rubber every time it is used. Oil the wringer
occasionally and, when not in use, leave the screws loose,
Appro'Ved Methods for Home Laundering 29
that the rolls may not become flat. Cover the wringer with
a cloth to keep it clean.
Cost, $2-50 to $6.oo.
The BOILER may be round or oblong, stationary or port­able,
but should be very largely of copper, not only for the
sake of greater durability but also because copper transmits
heat more readily than almost any other metal.
Cost, $2.00 to $7.00.
A CLOTHES STICK may be made of an old broomstick, or
can be bought with a metal-pronged end.
Cost, s to ISC.
A PAIL, of enameled ware, galvanized iron, tin , fibre, or
wood is necessary for changing waters.
Cost, Fibre, 98.c.; Enamel, $I.05; Wood, JOC. to soc.;
Galvanized Iron, ISC. to 2JC.; Tin , sse.
A DIPPER , of enameled ware or tin, is also necessary.
Tin is so thinly coated on the iron that it soon wears off and
rust appears.
,Cost, Enamel, 38c.; Tin, 2JC.
A DISH PAN, of enameled ware, is desirable to hold clothes
when being carried to and from the boiler.
Cost, $I.oo. to $I.2S.
A SAUCE PAN, of 5 or 6-qt. capacity, 1s necessary for
making starch, and this should be of enameled ware, made
with a bail.
Cost, JSC. up.
A SAUCE PAN or PAIL is needed in which to make soap
solution.
Cost, 2sc. up.
A TEAKETTLE, of enameled ware or tin, for h eating starch
water.
Cost, 8sc. up.
• Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering
• I CASE KNIFE, for shaving soap, wax, etc., and for clean-ing
irons.
Cost, I2c.
I LARGE WooDEN SPOON, for starch making.
Cost, sc.
For measuring or stirring.
I TABLESPOON.
Cost, I5c.
I TEASP06N.
Cost, Ioc.
I TIN CuP (Yz pint, divided into fourths).
Cost, I5c.
I QuART CuP.
Cost, I8c.
A MANGLE or IRONING MACHINE is desirable if there is
much fiat work-bed and table linen and towels-to be
ironed. They are little used outside of a public laundry,
but deserve to be better known. They save much time and
labor, and, if the rolls are heated, do excellent work with
careful handling.
Cost $2o.oo to $]o .oo.
The TABLE for sprinkling and ironing should be strong
and firm, and not more than 32 inches high. For thick
starch work, the weight of the ironer is often laid upon the
iron, and her table must be adjusted to her work. For
ironing, the table should be covered with two thicknesses of
a wool or cotton blanket, or one of felt, made for the pur­pose,
and over that a sheet made of firm, smooth cotton ,
preferably half bleached, because it wears longer. Never
furnish old, half-worn cotton for an ironing sheet. With
care and an occasional washing, the new cotton will last for
Approved Methods for Home La.utlderiflg 3t
MANGLE
•
32 Approved Methods for Home Laundering
months. The sheet should be hemmed and have tapes at­tached
to it, which are tied under the table and hold it in
place.
Cost. Table, $2.00 up; laundry settee, 36 in. long, $4.25;
blanket, cotton padding 68 in. wide, $r.Io; cotton, unbleached,
36 in. wide, Ioc.
A SKIRT BOARD is used for many things besides skirts.
It sometimes has a standard attached. If this makes a finn
board, it is very desirable and can be used for a large part of
the ironing. The blanket should be tacked on, and the cot­ton
sheet tied or pinned.
Cost, 65c.,· (five .feet long) stand (Udell) 98c.,· with rack un­derneatlz,
$I.25.
A BosoM BoARD is needed for shirt ironing, unless the
end of the skirt board can be used for that purpose . ·
Cost, I8c.
A SLEEVE BoARD is a great help for infants' clothes as
well as sleeves.
Cost, 35c. to $I.Io.
An IRONING STAND may be free from or attached to the
table or board, but it is necessary to protect board and cloth.
Cost, sc.
An IRONING HOLDER of asbestos, may be made or bought.
Cost, sc.
BEESWAX or PARAFFINE, wrapped in cloth, the ends of
"•hich are covered with a handle, can be bought to keep
irons smooth.
Cost, sc. each.
A CLOTHES HoRSE, which can be folded up when not in
use, is necessary . It should be light, strong, and made
with no iron anywhere.
Cost, 75c.
Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering 33
------
BRUSH FOR SPRINKLING CLOTHES
SLEEVE BOARD
•
34 Appr()<Ded Jlethods for Home Laundering
SAD IRONS must have a smooth surface. Nickel-plated
irons will not rust. Steel-faced irons will keep smooth with
care. The irons with detachable handle are desirable, but
the old-fashioned ones will do quite as good work. A gas
iron has a tube connecting it '~ith the gas pipe, and the gas
burns inside the iron.
with an electric plant.
An electric iron has wire connections
The heat does not vary in this iron,
so it can be used continually.
New irons must be heated · thoroughly and rubbed with
grease or wax before using. Store irons in a warm, dry
place. If they are to be packed away, rub them with
vaseline or clean grease and wrap in paper. Irons must
be kept clean to do good work. Never put a soiled iron
back onto the stove. Use a dull case knife or piece of steel
to get the starch off. Sometimes it will be necessary to rub
them on fine salt sprinkled on paper, or even to wash them
in soap and water and dry them. Wax rubbed over the
warm surface and then rubbed off on a cloth or paper will
keep them smooth.
Cost, 2 sad irons, 8/bs., tf-OC. each; 2 sad irons, 6/bs., 30c. each;
I sad iron, t~-lbs., 2oc. each; I flounce iron, narrow and long , 25c;
I or 2 polishers, 45c. each; set of 3 irons, with detachable handle,
98c.; gas or alcohol iron, 95c.; electric iron, $4-50 to $6 .oo.
CLOTHES BASKET. It should be light and easily handled.
Cost, Wicker, 75c.
A CLOTHES LINE, if o.f rope, must be kept clean by occa­sionally
washing it. If stationary, it must be wiped with a
damp cloth before using, whether rope or·wire. Rope line,
if brought into the house after use, must be kept in a clean
place, free from dust.
Cost, Rope, 65c. (roojt. )
Appro'Vecl Methods for Home Laundering 35
MRS, POTTS IRON COMMON IRON
FLOUNCE IRON
POLISHER
GAS IRON ELECTR IC IRON
•
36 Appro'Veci Methods for Home La.r.mcierir.g
CLOTHES PINS, the ordinary wooden ones, must be washed
occasionally to keep them clean, and must always be stored
in a clean, dry place. If in a clothes-pin apron, fold the top
over the pocket and put on a shelf.
Cost, Ioo (or I_oc.
A CLOTI-IES-PIN APRO::'f will form a bag for storing the
clothes pins, as well as a convenient pocket for them when
needed. To make apron, take a piece of bed ticking or
something equally strong, have material half a yard wide
and three-quarters of a yard long. Turn up one-quarter of
a yard on the outside for a pocket, bind the pocket and the
sides of the apron with tape, tack the pocket in the middle,
and put the apron on a belt.
Cost, Ioc. to 2oc.
A ·WHISK BROOM for sprinkling clothes, is desirable, and
works best if the broom is on one side only of the handle.
Cost, 25c.
ScissoRs.
Cost, 25c. and upward.
A FRINGE BRUSH, to straighten fringe, is made with bris-tles
on a slant.
Cost, 25c. to Soc.
A SoFT BRUSH for cleaning spots on flannel.
Cost, 2sc.
An old TooTH-BRUSH, for taking out stains.
A medicine dropper, for taking out stains.
Cost, sc.
A FLANNEL BAG, for straining rice starch, is made of a
light quality of fia·nnel, usually with cotton warp. A piece
about 15 inches square is folded from corner to corner, mak-
Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering 37
ing a triangle, and is stitched a little more than h alf vvay up.
When in use, the top end is folded over a rod or hook and
pinned so that the bag does not touch the utensil underneatl.1.
Cost, Ioc. to I5c.
Old flannel, folded once or twice, is used wllen ironing
embroidery or pinning down lace.
Old cloths are necessary for lining basket, covering
sprinkled clothes, wrapping up clean clothes, or cleaning off
spots.
•
PRACTICAL LAUNDRY WORK
"BLUE Monday," has so long been the day on which
vve plan to wash that to wash regularly on Tues­day
takes courage. But , would it be "blue Mon­day"
if the work did not, beyond reason, heap up on it and
on the housekeeper? Where one woman has everything to
do, let me suggest this plan of the week's work:
MONDAY.
r. Put the house in order.
2. Plan and cook for Tuesday.
3· Sort clothes.
4· Mend clothes (rents grow in washing) .
5· Take out stains (see pages 12 to 16).
6. Soak soiled clothes.
7· Lay fire for morning.
8. Fill boiler.
9· Get tubs at:d other things ready.
In sorting clothes, arrange them in five piles:
1. Table linen.
2. Bed linen , body linen, towels, handkerchiefs (soak
in boracic acid solution if they have been used
for a cold).
3· Flannels.
4· Colored cottons and stockings.
5· Soiled towels and cloths.
There is no doubt that soaking clothes loosens the dirt
Approcved Methods for Home Laundering 39
and makes the work of washing easier, but only white clothes
can be soaked. It is not wise t.o soak all kinds of clothes
together. If three tubs are available, use one for table linen,
one for bed and body linen, and one for the soiled towels
and cloths. These last should be soaked, even if the rest
are not. The table linen will need soaking least of all. Wet
the clothes, rub soap solution on the soiled parts, fold and \
roll each piece by itself, pack in a tub, cover with warm,
soapy water, and let them stand overnight. By doing this,
the dirt from soiled parts will not get into the clean parts.
TuESDAY.
1. Light fire and heat water.
2. Make soap solution.
3· Do washing. (Special order of washing will be
discussed later.)
4· Sprinkle and roll clothes.
WEDNESDAY.
r. Iron and bake·.
2. Do thick starching.
THURSDAY
Finish ironing.
FRIDAY.
Put house in order.
SATURDAY.
Bake and plan for Sunday.
ORDER OF DAY'S WORK OUTLINED
(Details are given on .following pages)
TuESDAY.
1. Heat water.
•
•
40 Appro'Ded Methods for Home La.unclermg
----------~--------~------------~---------
2. Make soap solution.
3· \Vash flannels or silk underwear. These require
no boiling and only warm water, and, if rinsed
and hung out at once, will be dry before the line
is needed for other things.
4· Wash stockings.
5· Using warm, clean suds, wash cleanest things first:
Table linen,
Bed linen,
Towels,
Body linen,
Handkerchiefs,
Soaked clothes.
Make fresh suds whenever necessary. It is a mis­take
to think you can wash clothes clean in dirty
water.
6. Boil. Put clothes into cold water with soap solu­tion.
Let them come slowly to the boiling point,
then let them boil for ten minutes. The longer
they are coming to the boil the better.
7· Rinse in two or three waters. The more waters,
the whiter and cleaner the clothes.
8. Blue. Shake out each piece and put through the
bluing water. Never allow clothes to stand in
bluing water, or they will become streaked.
g. Starch whatever needs thin starch.
IO. Hang out, putting pieces of a kind together, and
have the threads of the cloth straight. ·
I I. Wash colored clothes.
I2. Take down, piece by piece. Never crush clothes
into a basket.
Appro<rJecl Mefhocls for Home La.unclering 41
13 . Dampen and roll up.
WASHING OF LINEN AND COTTON
WHITE CLOTHES
Heat water in boiler.
Place tub on bench and rubbing board in place. Be sure
that both are clean.
Pour warm water into tub.
Add soap solution and have some near by.
Take cleanest clothes first, soaked ones last.
Rubbing is necessary for soiled clothes. Bench and board
should be of the right height, so that the arms, rather than
the back, will do the work. Rub soap or soap solution on
the articles, drop it to the foot of the board, hold the goods
firmly with both hands, but in such a way that the cloth,
not the hands, will get the benefit of the rubbing. While
rubbing up and down the board gradually gather the cloth
into the hands, then turn the article and rub the other side
in the same way. Soiled parts may need extra soap and
rubbing. Garments should be left wrong-side out, to pro­tect
the right side from dust, etc., while drying. Take fresh
suds whenever water becomes dirty. Delicate fabrics should
be rubbed between the hands, the fleshy parts of the thumb
being employed instead of the board.
Put clothes through a carefully adjusted clean wringer.
Wringing by hand is not only hard work, but it strains
the cloth. When using the wringer, fasten it firmly in a
convenient place, adjust the screws to bring the rolls close
together, and fold the cloth so that it will be even in thick­ness
when going through the machine. Be sure to fold all
buttons and hooks inside the garment and turn the wringer
•
42 Approcved Methods for Home Laundering
slowly. For blankets or heavy material the wringer must
be loosely adjusted.
Second suds is usually necessary. Shake out clothes
from wringer and drop into fresh, warm suds. When the
tub is partly filled, look over clothes for spots that may
need rubbing; then wring again into a clean basket or pail.
The clothes are now ready for
Boiling. Clothes should be clean before they are boiled,
but if any soiled or yellow parts have not yielded to rubbing,
put soap on them before they go into the boiler. H alf fill
the boiler with cold soft water and enough soap solution to
make ·a light lather. Shake out each piece and drop it into
the water. All white clothes should be boiled, and the best
results are obtained when there is a large quantity of water
and the boiler is but half full of clothes. Results are decided­ly
best when the clothes take a long time to reach the boil­ing
point and boil about ten minutes. A clean stick is
necessary for handling the hot clothes. If the clothes grow
yellow in boiling, it may be due to a poor quality of soap,
water containing iron, or poor washing. The color given
by dark resin soap may be taken out by k erosene. This
should be used only occasionally and in the proportion of two
tablespoonfuls to a boiler of clothes. Boiling should not be
omitted or slighted. The germs that make bad-smelling
clothes are easily killed by boiling. Disease germs may
need longer boiling-an hour at least, or several boilings;
but this is usually done under a doctor's directions.
After the white clothes have been boiled (and clean, cold
water should be used for each new boilerful) the lamp cloths
may go into the hot water without previous washing, kero­sene
being the agent that cleanses them. They must be well
_____A pprCYDed Methods for Home Laundering __;_ 43
rinsed to get rid of the kerosene smell, and for this purpose
hot water is better than cold.
Rinsing is very important, for clothes must be free from
soap before bluing, especially if you use the liquid blue. Lift
the clothes slowly out of the boiler into a clean pail or dish­pan,
and drain them to get rid of the soapy water before
dropping them into the rinsing water. Use soft water for
the first rinsing, then hard water if color of rain water is not
good. The first rinsing water should be warm, or the soapy
curd will harden on the clothes, and it may be necessary to
rub to ·get it off. A second, and even a third, rinsing water
is desirable. It is careless rinsing that leaves clothes a bad
color, and no amount of bluing will cover it up. Use the
wringer for rinsing and bluing waters- -in fact , whenever
possible.
Bluing. We have grown to like clothes of a blue-white
color. The more' sunshine and fresh air, the less blue is
needed. No rule -or proportion can be given for bluing.
The quantity to be used must be regulated by the color and
the amount of clothes to be blued. Often more blue must
be added, or a fresh water made. Tie the solid blue in a
thick cloth, flannel preferred, wet it, and squeeze out. Make
a strong solution of bluing in hot water, using a dipper or
small pan to hold it in, and from this add what is needed to
the tub of vnter. Take a little of the solution in the palm
of the hand to test it. It should be of a pale blue color.
Hard water may be used for bluing if color of soft is not
good. When bluing water is right in color, stir it up and
use at once. Remember that if it stands the solid blue will
settle, and clothes that touch the bottom or sides of the tub
will become streaked with blue. Shake out each article and
44 Appro<vecf Methods for Hom"e La.uncfering
drop it into the bluing w~ter; then very soon wring it out
and drop it into a clean basket. Unstarched clothes are now
ready for the line. Clothes requiring thick or raw starch
should also go onto the line to get the sun and air.
Starching comes next for those clothes requiring thin starch:
aprons, shirt-waists, the trimming of underwear, etc. Make
the starch according to directions given on page 23. The
amount of starch needed depends upon the number of gar­ments
to be starched. Those that should be stiff~st must be
starched first. Dry or thick materials take up more starch
than wet or thin ones, and the starch may need to be thinned
with water for some garments. When only part of a gar­ment
is to be starched, gather that part into the hand and
dip it into the starch, rub it well, then squeeze out the extra
starch. This must be done by hand, the rest of the gar­ment
being held out of the way. The starched pieces are
hung out with the rest.
Drying. Sunshine and fres~ air are so valuable in bleach­ing
and purifying clothes that we cannot afford to dry
clothes indoors if we can control a bit of outdoors. To aid
in the bleaching, put clothes out without wringing, or let
them lie on the grass and moisten them frequently.
The line must be wiped with a damp cloth, and the clothes­pin
bag, which is also an apron, must be tied . on. In cold
weather the laundress should protect herself with a sweater
or short jacket, a hood, and white mittens. Hang each piece
so that the threads of the material are straight and the gar­ment
is as nearly as possible in the shape desired when ready
to use again. This helps greatly to simplify the rest of the
work, and, if ironing for every piece is impossible, yo\1 will
have straight, sweet, sun-dried clothes to wear or use , with-
Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering 45
out any further work except folding. Many people prefer
the odor of sun-dried clothes, and if the wind whips out the
wrinkles, they are very acceptable. Ribbed underwear,
stockings, towels, and often sheets and pillowcases, can be
finished in this vvay when economy in laundry work must
be practiced-but always the ribbed underwear. Hang
pieces of a kind together and place hems well over the line
before pinning. Hems rather than selvages should go over
the line. Consider how things will dry quickly, and never
let water run into gathers or pockets, or have puckers and
corners to stretch out and straighten later. When clothes
are dry, take them down carefully, shake them free from
dust aud possible insects, and fold them lightly ( never crush
them) into the basket.
Dampening or sprinkling is usually clone the last thing
at night. Cover the table with a clean cloth, fill a basin
with warm water, and use· a clean whisk broom for sprink­ling.
The whisk should be kept for this purpose only.
A patent sprinkler may be used, or the hand, but the drops
should always be small. Sprinkle each large piece, fold
sides and ends into the middle, th en roll lightly. Lay small
pieces together before rolling. Linen should be very damp.
Pack all the rolls into the basket and cover tightly. Sprinkle
only what can be ironed the next day. If kept damp too
long, in hot weather especially, the clothes may mildew.
Ironing .is the finish of good laundry work a:nd the test of
the laundress. It is done to make clothes smooth, to make
them feel better and stay clean longer. Have ready an
ironing table or board, tightly covered with a blanket and a
clean ironing sheet, an iron stand, aud clean irons-·and to
keep the irons clean and the sheet unsoiled, have at band
•
46 ApprCYVe~ Methods for Home Laundering
beeswax in a cloth, a piece of old cloth, and a piece of clean
paper, folded three or four times, to try the irons on. To
moisten the clothes if they become dry, there should be a
bowl of clean water and a clean, soft cloth. A large piece of
paper may be spread on the floor to protect any pieces that
may hang to the floor. If the irons are heated by gas, they
must be wiped off several times while heating, else the
moisture that collects on the cold iron will form rust and soil
the clothes. A laundress's test for a hot iron is to hold it
near her cheek for a few seconds. If too hot for this, it is
too hot to use. But it is better to try the iron on a piece of
old cloth. Another test is to touch the bottom of the iron
with a wet finger; if it hisses, it is hot-the shorter the hiss,
the hotter the iron.
Shake or stretch the article to be ironed into shape and
place on board, having threads of cloth straight. Iron with
right hand from right to left, using the left hand to arrange
the material , but occasionally iron with the left hand. As
the material is ironed, bring it over the table or board toward
you. First iron the part that will wrinkle least, leaving the
plain, straight parts until the last. Ruffies and trimming
should be iron ed first . Lace must be stretched into shape be­fore
ironing and again afterward, to soften it. Best results
are attained when the iron follows the long warp thread of the
materi al. The cloth should be left dry, especially bands,
hems, and seams, or they will wrinkle. Linen must be very
wet, and must be ironed with a heavy iron until perfectly
dry. This gives a smooth, glossy surface a11d firmness to
the material. For heavy materials use heavy irons ; for thin
materials, lighter irons, and for gathers, a narrow, pointed
1ron. Iron quickly with an iron hot , yet not hot enough to
Approcved Methods for Home Laundering 47
scorch. If the material becomes dry or soiled, dampen or
rub it with a soft cloth.
Folding does not improve the appearance of articles, but it
is necessary in order to store things and keep them from
mussing. In general, all pieces should be folded several
times lengthwise, then softly crosswise, until of convenient
shape for handling. The trimming, if any, should show,
and usually it governs the shape of the folded garment.
Airing is necessary to perfectly dry the cl()thes; the clothes
should hang over night on the bars, and be sorted, mended,
and put away the next day. Damp clothes are a menace to
health. Clothes should be aired in clean, pure air, that they
may smell sweet ancl be free from dust.
•
•
DIRECTIONS FOR SPECIAL
ARTICLES
T ABLE Cloths must be freed from stains before washing,
and must be shaken and hung straight on the line, the
selvage folded six inches over at least; the cloths
may be doubled-therewill be less chance for them to whip out
at the corners. Fold several times when taking from the line
and never crush into the basket. If the directions for hang­ing
linen straight are followed there will be nothing further
to do, but if the linen has dried crooked and is stiff, it must be
straightened after it is dampened. For this, two people are
needed, one at each end, to shake and stretch it into shape.
Let each person gather the cloth into her hands just below
the hem; hold the selvages tightly with the little fingers, the
rest hold loosely; then, with both hands held high and close
together, at a signal throw the hands quickly down and out.
Repeat this several times if necessary, then fold selvages to­gether,
right side out. When ready to iron, lay hems on
table with the rest of the cloth at the back of the table to
keep it damp, iron one side the full length of cloth until
only partly dry, then the other side until perfectly dry. A
hot, heavy iron is necessary, and irons must be changed
often. This method will give you a firm, glossy linen- that
will hold its shape and look well. If it is possible to store
it with only one long fold, it will look better; if not, fold
again and iron fold in. Never press crossfolds. Hang the
cloth to dry, and fold it very lightly when ready to put
(48)
Appro'Ved Methods for Home Laundering 49
away. All folds may be put on the right side of the cloth
in the following manner: After ironing both sides, open it
and bring selvages together in the one middle fold on the
wrong side, iron the new folds, and lay sides together to air
and put away.
Very old or thin linen may need the least bit of starch in
it. One cupful of thin starch to half a pail of bluing water
will be enough. The linen will be a little firm and glossy,
but it must not show that it has been starched.
Napkins also must be very damp, and must be ironed until
dry. Stretch into shape, and place on board right side up
and hem in front of you. Iron both sides, then lay hems
together square and true and make two lengthvvise folds,
then two crosswise folds, and iron all folds in. The test of
a well-ironed napkin is smooth, glossy linen and-square, true
corners, all even. Napkins may be ironed double , like a
tablecloth. If the napkin is small, it may be folded into
thirds like a fan, first one way, then the other. Embroider­ed
napkins must be ironed on the wrong side, over several
thicknesses of flannel, to bring out the design, then the rest
of the napkin must be ironed dry and glossy. The em­broidery
must appear on the outside when folded. Fringe
must be whipped and brushed straight, never starched.
Carving cloths, tray cloths, centre pieces and doilies should
have hems and corners true. They are never folded , but
should be loosely rolled if too large to lie flat in a drawer .
. Towels, if of damask, are ironed on both sides, then folded
twice lengthwise. If of coarser weave, iron one side, then
iron the other side as you fold it. Bath towels should never
be ironed.
Handkerchiefs are made very damp, ironed smooth and
50 • Appro<fJecl Methods for Home La.underrng
straight with a hot iron, and 1olded as a napkin is folded .
Embroidery should be ironed on the wrong side, appearing
on the outside when handkerchief is folded.
Sheets and Pillowcases are sometimes made of linen but
more often of cotton. If trimmed, they will require starch­ing.
The whole or the trimmed part of the pillowcase and
one quarter of a yard from the edge of the wide-hem end of
the sheet, may be dipped into thin starch. The starched
parts must be thoroughly dampened and ironed smooth and
dry with a hot iron. Turn the pillowcase when ready to
iron it. See that the corners are pulled out and that the
cloth is straight. Iron trimming, then one side of the pil­lowcase,
and, as you fold it, iron the other side. All folds
J are lengthwise. Shake the sheet as you do the tablecloth.
If unstarched, this may be done before dampening. Fold
once lengthwise, right side out, then crosswise ; bring the
hems together and sprinkle them, leaving the rest of the
sheet dry. Fold the dampened parts together and roll up.
Use a heavy iron for sheets-one weighing eight or ten
pounds is best. Iron the dampened parts separately and the
dry parts together. Fold lengthwise and hang to air.
Nightgowns have only the trimming at neck and sleeves
starched. Sprinkle the entire garment, and fold starched ·
parts and hem inside before rolling. When ready to iron,
turn garment on right side and iron trimming first. Then
lay body lengthwise of board or table, iron front, then back
-or put it on the · board and iron a single thickness at a
time. Fasten at throat, and fold the body to width of yoke,
making a long, narrow strip, then fold crosswise to the depth '
of yoke. Let sleeve ends show at sides of yoke.
Drawers have only the trimming starched. Iron band or
Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 51
3.
4 5.
FOLDING Or NIGHT DRESSES
•
• 52 Approved Methods for Home Laundering
1. 2.
3. 4.
FOLDING OF ,DRAWERS
1.
Approved Methods for Home Laundering
-- ). -­I
' i.
4.
2.
5.
THE FOLDING OF CORSET COVERS
53
3.
54 Approcved Methods for Home Laundering
1. 2.
3.
FOLDING OF CHEMISES
Approcved Methods for Home Laundering 55
yoke first, then trimming and then body of garment. Fold
to show trimming only.
Corset Covers need thin starch all over. Dampen, fold
right side in, and roll. Iron trimming first, straighten ~ach
section of garment and, if a fitted corset cover, lay seams on
the. edge of the board nearest you. Iron each section
smooth, having threads of material straight. If this is
carefully done, the garment will fit and look as well as when
new. Fasten at throat, and fold to show trimming.
Petticoats need to be starched only at the bottom, but a
little thin starch will make the top iron more easily. Gather
the hem and trimming into the hands and put into the starch.
Rub them a little, so that the starch may be evenly distribut­ed,
wring out well by hand (or the wringer may be used),
shake, and hang straight to dry. Dampen well and, when
ready to iron, turn onto the right side. Iron band or yoke
first, then ruffies. Keep the damp part in a bunch, that it
may not dry out. Put skirt onto board, hem to the right.
Iron hem first, then between ruffies, and lastly the body of
each section lying on the board. Thoroughly dry each
part. Use a damp cloth freely for parts that are soiled or
too dry to iron smooth. Take skirt from the board and
hang to air. Fold by laying the middles of the back and
front together, then fold each half back upon itself fan-like,
making a long strip, which now fold loosely from band to
trimming.
Slzirts, Collars, and Cuffs require. thick starch, special
directions for the use of which will be found on page 22.
Slzirt-waists, if colored, must be carefully washed accord­ing
to directions given for ''colored clothes.'' Dip the shirt­waist
into thin starch; wring out, and hang waist to dry in
56 Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering
the shape in which it should be worn. If the material is hea­vy,
no starch will be needed, except, possibly, for neck band,
pleat, and cuffs. If the waist is thin or fancy, with soft
cuffs, it will need no further starching. If neckband and
cuffs are to be stiff, thick starch may be rubbed in when
shirt collars and cuffs are starched; or raw starch may be
made when ready to dampen waist, and the neckband, fr~nt
pleat perhaps, and cuff,; may be dipped into it, rubbed well
and squeezed nearly dry. Sprinkle the rest of the waist,
fold and roll. When embroidery or design of material is to
be brought out, iron on wrong side. When plain, take
polisher or ordinary iron of small size for the neck and cuffs.
Best work can always be done with the part to be ironed
straight and near to the front edge of the table, right under
the ironer. Iron the neckband and cuffs first on the right
side, then on the wrong; then again on the right side to dry
and polish. Use the ordinary iron for the rest of the waist;
fold the sleeve at seam and iron on top side nearly to fold.
With hand inside sleeve, loosen the two sides, then iron
lower side of sleeve. With hand inside again, change po­sition
of unironed part and smooth it with narrow iron, leav­ing
no crease in sleeve. Place small iron inside sleeve at
top, and smooth gathers. Do this also at cuffs if possible.
If sleeve board is used, these directions are unnecessary.
The fronts are usually ironed next and the back last.
Stretch front pleat and tucks into shape, place pleat next
you on the board, and iron until perfectly dry. Lastly, put
iron upon seams and leave them ~erfectly dry. Smooth all
creases and hang waist to air.
Appro'lied Methods for Home Laundering 57
THICK STARCHING
The most approved way of stiffening shirt bosoms, collars,
and cuffs, is by the use of thick, boiled starch. Raw starch
carefully used will produce a similar result. Make thick
starch as shown on page 22. For rubbing in starch, use
a clean table or, better still, stretch over the table a heavy,
damp cloth, and fasten it securely by pins or strings. On
the table place the starch, a bowl of water, and a clean, soft
cloth.
Dip sltirts into water and wring as dry as possible. Have
them still wrong side out, shake them straight, stretch the
neckband or collar into shape, and lay it upon the table
wrong side up. Rub starch into it with the hand, especially
on seams and edges, until it feels full of starch. Put a little
starch into the back of the yoke. Take a damp cloth and
rub off lightly _any extra starch. Stretch the bosom into
shape and place it on the table wrong side up. The back of
the shirt will lie beneath it. On the bosom lay the two cuffs
or wristbands straight and wrong side up. Rub starch into
the cuffs from the wrong side until it appears on the right
side and the cuff feels full of starch. Rub off any extra
starch with a damp cloth, and smooth out any wrinkles on
the right side of the cuff. Rub starch into the bosom the
same way, "clear it off," turn it onto the right side, and
work out all wrinkles. Leave all parts as smooth and true
as you wish them to be when ironed. Separate the back
from the front, hang bosom toward the fire, have neckband
in shape, tab turned up, and cuffs straight. Allowing parts
to dry in shape makes the work of ironing comparatively easy.
Treat separate collars and cuffs in the same way as the shirt
and pin them onto a cloth, or string them together to dry.
58 Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering ------
Thick starch work is never dampened by sprinkling, but
by contact with a wet cloth. It is better to dampen the
clothes overnight, but four or five hours' pressure will an­swer.
Dip the lower half of the shirt into water and wring
it half dry, turn half of the wet part over the bosom and
half over the back. Place the cuffs on the bosom, fold the
sides toward the centre, and roll from the neck down, or,
better still, place one shirt upon another, and over all a cloth,
board and heavy weight.
To iron a shirt you need an ironing table, a bosom board,
a knife to clean the irons, wax, a bowl of water, a clean
· cloth, and polishing, as well as ordinary flat-irons. Turn
the shirt r.ight side out, double the back in the middle and
iron it quickly with a common iron . Iron the yoke.
Straighten the cuffs, and with a polisher, iron first the wrong
side slightly, then the right side until dry and polished. To
polish successfully, great pressure must be used. The
weight of the body is often brought down upon the iron.
Iron the sleeve just above the cuff. Next, iron the neckband
on the wrong side, and polish the inside of the yoke, because
it shows when the shirt is folded. Dry and polish the right
side of the band. If the collar is attached to the shirt, iron
it first, but do not turn it over until you are ready to fold
the shirt, then fold carefully with the hand, and press it
with the iron in the middle of the back. Put shirt on bosom
board. If the shirt is open in front, iron the upper side
first; iron lightly, then dry and polish. Then iron the lower
side of the bosom, then both together until perfectly dry.
Be sure the sides are of equal length and the eyelet holes
coincide. If the shirt is closed in front, iron the side near
you first, then the pleat in the middle, raise the pleat with a
Appro'Ved Methods for Home Laundering 59
1.
(
4.
5.
FOLDING OF SHIRTS
60 Approved Meth~ds for Home Laundering
dull knife. Lastly, iron the side from you, working toward
the outside of the bosom. Always work lightly and slowly
at first until the part begins to dry out, then with force and
faster, to dry thoroughly and polish. After the bosom, iron
the cloth next to it and the tab. 'Take the shirt from the
bosom board, place it, front down, on the table, iron the
back of the sleeves, turn the shirt, iron the front of the
sleeves and the front of the garment. Fasten the neckband
together, lay the shirt in shape, bosom up, and iron a fold
in the yoke near the band. 'Turn the shirt over and fold
sleeves onto the back. Next, fold body of garment onto the
back, making a~ strip the width of the bosom. Fold this
strip to size of bosom and hang the garment to air.
Collars and Cuffs are ironed with the polisher first lightly
on the wrong side, then on the right side to dry and polish.
Curl them when quite dry with a common iron, and turn the
corners if desired. Before curling, warm the collar with the
iron, place it rightside down, and hold iron in right hand on
the end of collar toward you. 'Take that end in your left
hand, have edge of iron close to it and, as the iron recedes,
follow it closely with the left hand. Do this several times,
and from both ends, until the collar assumes its proper shape.
Practice and dexterity only will make an expert at this
work. If "domestic finish" is desired for linen, the gloss
can be taken off: with a damp cloth. Wring the cloth as
dry as possible and rub lightly, preferably when the linen
1s warm.
A damp cloth is necessary in thick starch to take out
wrinkles or remove dirt. Wring the cloth very dry and
work lightly with it-pat rather than rub. Always have
clean irons. If the iron sticks, it may be dirty or too cool.
Approcved Methods for Home Laundering 61
Never return an iron to the fire without being sure that it
is clean. .
CLEAR STARCHING
Thin Muslins, fine Handkerchiifs, and Infants' Caps and
Dresses should be clear starched. A very thin starch is used
which has a clear appearance, hence the name. This may
be made from corn starch, in the proportion of one level
tablespoonful of starch to one quart of water. Boil ten
minutes. Rice starch is even better. Make according to
directions given on page 23. It will probably be necessary
to dip a bit of material into the starch and iron it to find out
when the starch is right. The muslin should be as stiff as
when new, never stiff enough to crack and rattle.
Use Ivory Soap for all fine work-and Ivory Soap solution
is better still. If the material is soiled, soak it, then wash
it very carefully, squeezing rather than rubbing. If it must
be rubbed, lay it on a piece of white cloth, and rub both to­gether
between the hands. Boil it in a bag to protect the
delicate fabric; or, if not very much soiled, pour an abun­dance
of absolutely boiling water over it and let it stand.
Rinse the material well, blue it, and put it into the thin, hot
starch. Squeeze it out, and lay it between cloths for a few
moments to absorb the moisture. Shake out the material, ·
and pat or clap it between the hands until it is dry enough
to iron. Pull it gently into shape, put it on the table, and
iron it on the right side unless it is embroidered. The em­broidery
must be ironed on the wrong side over flannel, and
then the muslin on the right. Being thin, the muslin will
dry out quickly. Use a damp cloth freely, and leave each
/
part dry, smooth, and free from wrinkles.
62 Appro'Ved Methods for Home La.undering
COLORED CLOTHES
The work of the dyer has improved until now almost all
wash goods are considered fast in colors. However, this does
not mean that they may be treated as you would treat white
clothes. The dyes are of two kinds: substantive, those that
combine with the material to be dyed, and adjective, those
that attach themselves to, rather than combine with, the ma­terial.
To the former class belong the wools and silks; to
the latter, the linens and cottons. From the tough, resistant
character of the linen and cotton fibres, we can understand
that they will not readily take up color and that, if they do,
they will part with it easily. Strong soaps, hot water, and
even sunshine tend to weaken their color, so that the great­est
care must be used in washing colored clothes, especially
if the color is delicate. We know that most reds, pinks, and
blacks are fast, but we are never sure of anything until we
have washed a sample and dried it. If the color suffers, try
to set it with a solution of salt, white vinegar, borax, alum,
or sugar of lead (a strong poison). These may be used in
the proportion "of one level tablespoonful of any one of them
to a gallon of water. None but a "neutral" soap ?mst be
used, and sometimes starch water rather than soap. The
starch is very, very thin, and is used as you would use suds.
Ordinarily, good results are obtained by following the direc­tions
given below:
Make a warm suds of Ivory Soap and water, and quickly
wash, rinse, and hang out to dry one garment at a time.
Should the water be colored by the goods, take fresh water
for the next garment. Never rub soap on the goods, nor
the goods on the board-except the edges of the hem if very
Approcved Methods for Home Laundermg
much soiled. Squeeze or rub it gently by hand. When
clean, rinse it several times, until the last water is clear, and
use acidified water if necessary: The use of alum water will
make garments less inflammable. If you want to strengthen
a blue, use bluing. Starch the garment at once in thin
starch, after turning it wrong side out; shake it into shape,
and hang it to dry in the shade. When dry, dampen and
roll up the garment, but only a short time before ironing.
Muslins, prints, and ginghams should be ironed on the wrong
side whenever possible, as it makes the material look like new.
HOSIERY
Merino, or ordinary woolen hose, as well as silk hose, must
be washed according to directions given for washing flannels.
Wash black or colored cotton hose in clean suds; otherwise,
white particles will adhere to them. . If the fastness of the
color is in doubt, wash the foot first, holding the leg out of
the water. Rub soap carefully on the foot, wash it, put in
the entire stocking, wash quickly, turn it wrong side out,
wash, rinse and wring it, stretch and shake it into shape, and
hang it to dry. When nearly dry, iron on the wrong side
with a warm ( not hot) iron. Put the hand into the foot of
the.stocking and, as you draw out the hand, follow with the
iron, or fold the stocking at the seam and iron flat. If stock­ings
are embroidered the design must have no fold or crease
in it.
WOOLS
Woolen material will easily shrink if carelessly handled.
(See chapter on fibres for explanation of shrinking.) A
"neutral" soap must be used, and if a soap claims to wash
without shrinking, it does so only because you follow care-
·I
64 Approved JV!ethods /or Home Laundercng
fully fhe directions that come with the soap. Strong soaps
or alkalies, except the milder ones-borax and ammonia­weaken
the fibre and make it more liable to shrink. The
rubbing on of soap of any kind is not desirable, because you
must get it out, and it may require the rubbing of the ma­terial,
which tends more than anything else to mat the wool
and shrink the garment. Hot water and then cold must not
be used, because heating expands the fibres, and as they lie
so close together, they may interlock; then, when the cold
contracts the fibres, they cannot unlock. As a consequence,
the material shrin_ks. Extremes of temperature, then, are to
be avoided.
Shake the dust out of the flannel. Make warm5uds with
Ivory Soap solution. Have it about I20° Fahrenheit, that
is, so the hands can very comfortably be held in the water.
If the garment is quite soiled, add a half tablespoonful of
household ammonia for each gallon of water, and let the gar­ment
soak for ten minutes. Draw the garment through the
hands, work it up and down, and squeeze it, but do not rub
soap on it or rub it on the board. Put it through the wringer,
turn the garment wrong side out and put it through a second
suds the same temperature as the first. If any soiled spot
does not yield to this treatment, lay it upon the table or other
smooth surface, hold it straight, and rub it briskly with a
small brush. If necessary, use a little soap solution on the
brush. Rinse the garment quickly through several waters
of the same temperature as the first water. If hard water is
used for rinsing, soften it with a very little soap solution.
Rinse flannel until the water is clear. Put it through the
wringer or squeeze the water out; do not twist H. Shake it
or hang it out to dry where it is warm. Never where it is
Approved Methods for Home La.undering 65
so hot that the garment will steam, or where it is cold.
Guard against extremes of temperature. Stretch the gar­ment
into shape as it dries. This is especially true of ribbed
underwear, which also does not need to be ironed. Press
flannel when nearly dry, on the wrong side, until peifectly
dry, using a moderately warm iron. Never have the iron
so bot that the flannel will steam, and press, rather than rub
it. Closely twisted and woven wool will shrink less than
loosely woven materials.
Woolen dress goods of any kind must be washed as flannels
are. Try first a sample, to see what treatment is necessary.
Set the color, if it runs, and work quickly. Ammonia will
usually brighten black goods. Wring loosely from one water
to the other, and if the material wrinkles badly, take it from
the last water without wringing, and hang it by the edge to
dry. Put over the ironing sheet a cover of cotton cloth,
fast in color and about the color of the material to be ironed.
While yet damp, put the material on the table wrong side up,
and iron till perfectly dry, with a warm (not hot) iron. Air
the material, then roll, but do not fold it, and it will look
like new.
BLANKETS
Select a warm, sunny, breezy day for washing blankets.
First shake the dust out, then soak the blankets in warm
suds of Ivory Soap for thirty minutes. Work them up and
down in the water, squeeze them against the sides of the
tub, and put them through the wringer, loosely adjusted, into
another strong suds of the same temperature as the first. Stir
about and soak for ten minutes, stretch soiled parts over a
smooth surface, and r·ub with a brush, using a little of a so­lution
of Ivory Soap cut up and dissolved in hot water.
66 Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering
Rinse m several warm waters-or until both blanket and
water are clean-then hang to dry in the open air. Hang
the blankets so that they will dry straight. When perfectly
dry, rub the surface with a soft flannel cloth and hang them
near a stove or in a warm room for several hours. For each
pair of blankets allow a half cake of Ivory Soap.
SILKS
Silk fibre is smooth and shiny, and for best results re­quires
the same treatment in the lauu.dry as wool. If
rubbed hard, the fibre is broken and the shiny effect lost.
It should never be boiled.
Wash silk carefully in warm water, with Ivory Soap solu­tion
in it. Soak twenty minutes if necessary, and take fresh
suds for the washing. Do not rub silk except with a soft
nail brush over a smooth surface. Rinse in several warm
waters until the last water is clear. Place between . dry
towels and put through wringer loosely adjusted, or squeeze
water from it and hang to dry where you can watch it.
When nearly dry, iron with a very moderate iron, until per­fectly
dry. If the iron is hot, the silk will be stiff. A thin
muslin spread over the silk before ironing may give better
results when material is thin. If silk is colored, it will be
better to try a sample, and to set it as you would colored
cottons, with salt or vinegar.
Silk Crape, or silk of fancy weave, that does not require
ironing may be taken from the last water without wringing,
spread straight and smooth upon a clean table and allowed
to dry there. It will look like new.
Lay Ribbons out smooth upon the table and brush them
with a nail brush dipped in soapy water. Brush both sides.
,.
Appro'l'Jed Methods for Home Laundering 67
When clean, rinse without squeezing, and draw through the
hands, and while quite wet, spread straight and true upon a
clean, smooth surface to dry or iron when nearly. dry under
a cloth.
Wash Chiffon in soapy water, rinse carefully, clap dry ,
stretch into shape, and iron on the wrong side with a cool
1ron.
Wash Sdk-embroidered Linen in I vory Soap solution and
water, rubbing soiled parts with a brnsh. Rinse till clear.
If color is inclined to run, do not wring but lay between dry
cloths and iron immediately. Always iron wrong side up
over several thicknesses of flannel, to make the embroidery
stand out. When dry, turn it onto the right side and iron
the linen between the embroidery.
Silk-ribbed Underwear must be washed in warm Ivory Soap
and water, to which a tablespoonful of household ammonia
for each gallon of water has been added. It may be soaked
for ten minutes, then quickly washed, rinsed, and dried.
Do not iron it, but stretch it until it is soft.
Velvet to be renewed must be passed over steam and
brushed lightly against the nap meanwhile. A device can
be bought to attach to the nose of the teakettle, or steam
can be produced by covering an inverted hot flatiron with
several thicknesses of wet cloth over which the velvet is
drawn.
LACES
R eal laces are rarely washed, because they thicken slight­ly,
and require very careful handling to make them appear
like new.
Wash White Lace in warm water with Ivory Soap and a
little ammonia. Soak it for an hour, then use fresh water.
68 Appwved Methods for Home Laundering
Do not rub, but squeeze the dirt out. If the lace is very
yellow, put soapy water over it and set it in the sun for a
day or two. When it is· clean, rinse well. If you wish the
lace cream color, add strong coffee to the last rinsing water.
If you wish it white, add a little bluing. To give lace the
body it had when new, stiffen it in gum arabic water, made
by dissolving a piece of gum arabic the size of a pea in one
half pint of boiling water. Lay the lace between cloths to
absorb the moisture, clap it until nearly dry, pull it into
shape, and pin it onto flannel straight and true. Be sure
that each point is in shape and that every loop of the pearl
edge has a pin to hold it in place.
Wash Black Lace in one cup of strong coffee to which one
tablespoonful of ammonia has been added. Rinse it in gum
arabic water, clap until nearly dry, and pin it into shape on
flannel or iron under black muslin with a warm (not hot) iron.
Shake and brush Lace Curtains to remove the dust, soak
them in soapy water over night. Work the curtains gently
up and down in the water and squeeze them between the
hands to get the dirt out. Put them into clean warm suds
with ammonia added, and keep changing the water until the
curtains are clean. Never wring curtains by hand; lay them
on a strip of cloth and put carefully through the wringer.
Rinse well in several waters, and put through hot, moderate­ly
thick starch. If the curtains are white, the starch should
be blued; if cream color, strong coffee should be added to it.
Pin each point carefully to the drying frame and set in the
air to dry . Two or three curtains may be dried at the same
time on one frame. If you have no frame, lay clean sheets
over the floor of an unused room, stretch he curtains into
shape, square and true, and pin each point so that it will
not slip. If points are out of shape when dry, they may be
dampened with a cloth and ironed.