R..stry
Wrinkles
t OMPLIMr..;NTS OF
RONEY & PAULSON
438 Georgia St. ·
Vallejo
c:::::::=::==================1t\
Pastry Wrinkles
How to Make and Bake Delicious Hot Breads, Cake
and Pastry; also Recipes and Suggestions
for Other Especially Good
Things to Eat
BY FANNIE MERRITT FARMER
Miss Farmer is one of the foremost
authorities on the science of cooking in
the United States. She is editor of the
cookery department of TnE "\\TOMAN's
HoME CoMPANION and principal of The
Boston Cooking School at Boston, Mass.
Each of the recipes given in this little
book is Miss Farmer's own, tried and
proven. All instructions were written
by her.
Follow them carefully and we can
promise you success. That is, if you use
for your shortening Armour's "Simon
Pure" Leaf Lard.
Copyright, 191~, Armour and Company.
2 PASTRY WRINKLES
Cream of Lard
This finest lard is the purest, sweetest,
most perfect shortening that it is possible
to produce. Not only "cream of lard"
but cTeam of shortening.
As delicate as butter, it is more satisfactory.
"Simon Pure" makes all breads
and cake deliciously moist and tender, as
well as light as a feather, while its pastry
is a flaky marvel.
Fry in deep fat made from "Simon
Pure" Leaf Lard and you may enjoy all
the old fashioned dishes that delighted
your childhood without fear of indigestion.
"Simon Pure" makes food digestible
as well as delicious.
Experienced housewives all agree that
there is no substitute for real leaf lard.
Those who know best say there is no
substitute for Armour's "Simon Pure"
Leaf Lard.
ARMOUR~ COMPANY
CHICAGO
PASTRY WRINKLES
For Digestible Frying
Use Deep Fat
3
FRYING is cooking by means of immersion in
deep fat raised to a temperature of from 350 to 400
degrees F. Three pounds of "Simon Pure" Leaf
Lard is the amount required for deep frying, and a
Scotch kettle is the best cooking utensil to use.
Great care should be taken in frying that fat is
of the right temperature; otherwise food so cooked
will absorb fat.
Great care should also be taken that too much is
not put into the kettle at one time, not only because
it lowers the temperature of the lard, but because it
causes it to bubble and go over the sides of the
kettle. It is not lard that boils, but water which
fat has received from food.
4 PASTRY WRINKLES
All fried food on removal from the kettle should
be drained on brown paper·.
Rules for Testing Fat for Frying
1. When the lard begins to smoke, drop in an
inch cube of bread, from soft part of loaf, and if in
forty seconds it is golden brown, the lard is then of
right temperature for frying any cooked mixture.
2. Use same test for uncooked mixtures, allowing
one minute for bread to brown.
Many kinds of food may be fried in the same
"Simon Pure;" new lard should be used for batter
and dough mixtures, potatoes and fish balls; after
these, fish, meat and croquettes. "Simon Pure"
should be frequently clarified.
To clarify "Simon Pure," melt, add raw potato
cut in quarter inch slices, and allow lard to heat
gradually; when it c'"ases to bubble and potatoes
are well browned, strain through double cheese
cloth, placed over wire strainer, into a pan. The
potato absorbs any odors or gases, and collects to
itself some of the sediment, the remainder settling
to the bottom of the kettle.
In the following Recipes
all measurements are level, allowing sixteen
tablespoons to a cup.
PASTRY WRINKLES 5
Doughnuts
Work one-fourth cup "Simon Pure" I.eaf Lard
until creamy nnd add gradually, while beating constantly,
one and one-fourth cups sugar; then add
the yolks of two eggs, beaten until thick and the
whites of two eggs beaten until stiff. Mix and sift
four cups flour, one-half teaspoon salt, one-fourth
teaspoon grated nutmeg, and three and one-half
teaspoons baking powder. Add alternately with
one cup milk to first mixture. Toss on a slightly
floured board, knead slightly, pnt and roll to onefourth
inch in thickness, using one-half the mixture
at a time. Shape with a doughnut cutter, first
dipped in flour, fry in "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard and
drain on brown paper.
Croquette Making
It is an axiom of successful croquette making
that the finished croquette should always be soft
and creamy inside. The inexperienced housewife,
6 PASTRY WRINKLES
on account of the difficulty of handling ,the mixture,
is apt to add a few cracker or bread crumbs, and
while this makes the shaping easy, it detracts from
the delicacy of the croquette. We would rccom·
mend to her that she begin by making potato or
rice croquettes, which require less skill than most
varieties. Potato croquettes should be shaped at
once, while the potato is still warm, other croquette
mixtures chilled; but the pan containing mixture
should never be put in direct contact with the ice.
To PREPARE CRUMBS, remnants of stale bread
may be dried, but not browned, in a slow oven,
then rolled and sifted. Remove the outside crust,
which otherwise may make the crumbs too brown
in color. The crumbs may be kept for a long time
if allowed to remain in an uncovered glass jar.
Another method of preparing crumbs is to remove
the outer crust from a stale loaf of bread, break it
in pieces, and force these pieces through a colander.
While cracker crumbs are sometimes used, when
bread is not at hand, their use detracts from the
appearance of the croquette.
To PREPARE EGG. Break egg into a shallow
plate, beat slightly with a fork, and dilute with two
tablespoons cold water. Every part of the surface 4
of the croquette should be coated with the egg, as
well as with the crumbs.
To FRY CROQUETTES. (See rule for testing fat
on page 4.) Use "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard, about
three pounds in a deep kettle, for the frying of
croquettes. A frying basket may be used, and five
croquettes fried at a time, never more. A skimmer
may be found convenient. when the amount of fat
PASTRY WRINKLES 7
is low in the kettle, and two or three croquettes
fried at a time. Reheat the "Simon Pure"
between the fryings.
IF CROQUETTES Do NOT KEEP THEIR SHAPE in
frying, there may be water in the article to be
fried. This is especially true of potato croquettes
where the potatoes have been overdone. The
lard may have been used too many times; or
may not have been sufficiently heated; or the
temperature may have been reduced by an attempt
to fry too many croquettes at a time; or, the
entire surface of the croquette may not have
been covered with egg.
Potato Croquettes
Wash and pare four medium sized potatoes, drop
at once into cold water to prevent discoloration and
soak one hour; drain, cook in boiling salted water
until soft, again drain and force potatoes through
a potato ricer; there should be two cups. Add
three tablespoons cream, one-half teaspoon salt,
one-eighth teaspoon pepper, a few grains cayenne,
a few drops onion juice and the yolk of one egg and
beat thoroughly. Take up a rounding tablespoon:
ful of the mixture and roll between the hands in the
form of a smooth ball; then roll lightly on a board
until of the desired length, and flatten ends, care
being taken not to leave the ili'!)ression of the
fingers. Roll in crumbs, then in egg, and then in
crumbs again, fry for one minute in deep fat made
from "Simon Pure" Lea\ Lard, and drain on
brown paper.
8 PASTRY WRINKLES
Huntington Croquettes
Cook three tablespoons butter with one-fourth
tablespoon finely chopped onion, three minutes,
stirring constantly. Add one-fourth cup flour and
stir until well blended, then pour on gradually,
while stirring constantly, one cup chicken stock
(the liquor in which a fowl has been cooked).
Bring to the boiling point and add one teaspoon
salt, one-fourth teaspoon paprika, one-eighth
teaspoon pepper, few gratings nutmeg, yoll's three
eggs slightly beaten, one and one-fourth cups cold
cooked chicken, cut in small cubes and one-half
cup of cold boiled ham, cut in small cubes. Spread
on a plate to cool. Shape, dip in crumbs, egg and
crumbs, fry in deep kettle of "Simon Pure" Leaf
Lard, and drain on brown paper. Remove to hot
serving dishes and garnish with parsley.
Philadelphia Fried Oysters
Put selected oysters in a strainer and pour over cold water,
allowing two-thirds cup to a quart of oysters. Carefully pick
over oysters, '-taking each one separately in the fingers and
remove any particles of shell which adhere to the tou~h muscle.
Dry between towels, sprinkle with salt and pe~per, d!P in flou r,
egg and stale bread crumbs, fry in uSimon !:Jure" Leaf Lard
and drain on brown paper. Remove to hot platler and garnish
with parsley.
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PASTRY WRINKLES 9
Baking Powder Biscuit
Mix and sift two cups bread flour (once sifted),
four teaspoons baking powder and one teaspoon
salt. Work in one-fourth cup "Simon Pure" Leaf
Lard, using the tips of the fingers, then add threefourths
cup of milk and one tablespoon extra milk,
mixing with a knife. Toss on a flow·ed board,
knead quickly into shape, pat and roll to one-half
inch in thickness. Shape with a round biscuit
cutter, first dipped into flour. Place close together
in a greased pan and bake in a bot oven from
fifteen to eighteen minutes.
Emergency Biscuit
Mix and sift one and one-half cups pastry flour
(once sifted) with three and one-half teaspoons
baking powder and three-fomths teaspoon salt.
Work in three tablespoons "Simon Pure" Leaf
Lard, using the tips of the fingers; then add onethird
cup each, water and milk, mixing quickly,
using a knife. Drop by tablespoonfuls into
greased hot gem pans and bake in a hot oven
fifteen minutes.
10 PASTRY WRINKLES
Family Pie Paste
(For Two Pies)
Measure three-fourths cup "Simon Pure"
Leaf Lard and reserve two tablespoons. Add the
remainder (first cutting in with a knife, and then
using the tips of the fingers) to two cups pastry
flour (once sifted), mix with one and one-half
teaspoons salt. Moisten with one-half cup cold
water, and when well mixed, toss on a slightly
floured board and cut off nearly one-half, reserving
it for undercrusts. Pat and roll the remainder
into a rectangular piece. Dot over with one
tablespoon reserved lard, dredge with flour and cut
in thirds, lengthwise. Pile strips one on top of
another; fold in halves lengthwise, then in quarters.
Again pat and roll into rectangular shape, dot with
remaining tablespoon lard, and dredge "·ith flour.
Cut in thirds, lengthwise, and fold in halves and
then in quarters. Cut in halves and turn over,
having cut edges come on top. Pat and roll each
piece to fit top of pie. Cut reserved part in
!:.~lves and pat and roll for undercrust of pies.
PASTRY WRINKLES 11
Apple Dumpling
Roll pie paste, worlcing in the two extra tablespoons
lard to whole amount, and cut in squares.
Pare and core eight medium sized apples and
place an apple on the center of each square. Fill
each cavity with sugar and add a few grains, each,
cinnamon and nutmeg, and a bit of butter. Wet
edges of paste with white of egg and fold points
over apples. Place in a pan and bake in a hot oven
until apples are soft; the time required being about
fifty minutes. Serve with sugar and cream or
whipped cream.
Maryland Fried Chicken
Clean, singe and cut in pieces for serving two young chickens.
Plunge into cold water, drain, but do not wipe. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper, and coat thickly with flour, having as much
flour adhere to chicken as possible. Put one cup "Simon Pure"
Leaf Lard into hot frying pan, and when melted and hot add
chicken, a few pieces at a time (so as not to too quickly reduce
the temperature of the fat), and cook slowly, turning frequently
until chicken is tender and well browned; the time required
being about thirty-five minutes. Arrange on a bed of hot
boiled hominy and garnish with parsley. Serve with or without
cream sauce.
12 PASTRY WRINKLES
Sugar Cookies
Work one-third cup "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard
until creamy, and add gradually, while beating
constantly, one cup sugar; then add one egg,
beaten until light, one-fourth cup milk and one
teaspoon vanilla. Mix and sift two and onefourth
cups flour with two teaspoons baking
powder and three-fourths teaspoon salt, and add
to first mixture.
Toss one-fourth of mixture on a floured board
and pat and roll as thinly as possible; shape with
small round or fancy cutter, first dipped in flour.
Place near together on a greased sheet and bake in
a moderate oven. Gather up the trimmings and
roll with another portion of dough. During
rolling, the bowl containing mixture should be
kept in a cool place, or it will be necessary to add
more flour to dough, which makes cookies hard,
rather than crisp and short.
Sour Milk Gingerbread
Put one-fourth cup "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard in mtxmg
bowl, and pour over one-half cup molasses which has been
brought to the boiling point. As soon as lard is melted, add
one-half cup sugar, one-half cup sour milk, to which has been
added one and one-fourth teaspoons soda, and one and threefourths
cups flour, mixed and sifted with one teaspoon, each,
ginger and salt. Turn into a greased and floured shallow cake
pan and bake in a moderate oven twenty-five minutes.
PASTRY WRINKLES 13
Chocolate Layer Cake
Work one-third cup "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard until creamy,
using a wooden cake spoon, and add grad ually, while beating
consta nt ly, t wo cups brown s ugar; then add two squares
unsweetened chocolate (melted in saucepan placed over hot
water), and two eggs beaten until light.
Add alternn.tely to first mixture one-hal£ cup milk, with two
cups pastry flour, mixed and sifted with one teaspoon soda and
one-fourth teaspoon salt. Turn into three greased and floured
round layer tins, and bake in a modera te oven twenty-five
minutes.
Remove from pan and put between layers B u nNT ALMOND
C n.EAM and spread top with CnocoLA'fE FrtOSTl NG.
Burnt Almond Cream
One-third cup Jordan almonds, blanched, shredded and baked
i n a slow oven until delicately browned, stirrin g frequently.
Defore adding the chocolate, t a ke one-half the recipe for C HocoLATE
FnoSTING a nd add the burnt almonds, beating until of
right consistency to spread, t hen add vanilla.
Chocolate Frosting
Put one cup sugar and one-third cup boiling wa ter in saucepa
n, and stir to prevent sugar from adhering to saucepan;
heat gradually to boiling point, and boil without stirring until
syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. P our syrup
gradually on beaten white of one egg, beating mixture const
a.ntly , add one and one-half squares melted chocolate and
continue beating until of right consistency to spread; then add
one-half teaspoon vanilla.
14 PASTRY WRINKLES
Beaten Biscuits
Eight cupfuls of flour, twelve level tablespoonfuls
Armour's "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard; one and
one-half teaspoonfuls salt; one cupful water; one
cupful milk. Sift into a bf1sin, add salt, rub lard
well in with the hands, then add milk and water,
gradually making a stiff dough. Knead thoroughly
until dough is perfectly smooth. Turn out on a
floured board. Beat continuously for thirty
minutes with a rolling pin, folding over the dough
as it is flattened out. Roll into a sheet about half
an inch thick, cut out with small biscuit cutter,
prick thoroughly with a fork three times near the
center of the biscuit, and bake in a moderate oven
for half an hour.
(This is Miss Neil's recipe for Beaten Biscuits, the "Beaten
Cracker" spoken of in the letter given on the next page.)
PASTRY WRINKLES 15
SCHOOL OF COOKERY
3603 Powelton Ave.
West Philadzlphia, Pa.
ARMOUR & CoMPANY, Chicago:
Dear Sirs:-We have been using your "Simon
Pure" Leaf Lard in many and varied ways and are
delighted with the results.
We have found it excellent in every way and it
has all the merits you claim for it. Up to this
time we have never used lard in our work, unless
an odd pound or two supplied by our butter and
egg merchant.
Somehow or other we thought that lard always
smelt and tasted badly in the dishes prepared with
it; now we know differently. Directly after the
sample of lard arrived here, I determined to use it
as shortening in a beaten cracker that I was anxious
to put on the market.
I did so and now my biscuits are on sale in some
of the best stores in the city. I am sending a few
of them to you and hope you will accept them, as
I would like to have your opinion of them.
I will gladly say a good word for "Simon Pure"
every time I get a chance. With best wishes,
Yours faithfully,
MARION HARRIS NEIL.
}liss 1\In.rion Harris Neil is the Principal of the Philadelphia
School of Cookery. She is editor of the •'Bc.<t Hecipe" department
of the Ladies' Home Journal and editor of "Table Talk,''
the well known cookery magazine. The above let.ter was a
voluntary and enthusiastic acknowledgement of the writer's
conversion to "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard as a perfect shortening"
16 PASTRY WRINKLES
THE
SIGNS OF "SI,MON PURE"
PURITY
The Leaf Lard Label
The U.S. Government Seal
The Air-tight Pail
The Crinkled Top
ReQ. N<~. 317,212